As far as I can tell the favourite story about the introduction of coffee to Austria is apocryphal. In 1683 Vienna was besieged by the invading Turkish armies, the second but last time these troublesome neighbours would challenge Hapsburg authority over the region.
Legend has it that when the Turks fled they left behind several bags of coffee which were at first mistaken for horse or camel feed. Why anyone would mix supposed animal feed with hot water, sugar and milk to prepare a refreshing beverage has never been explained. What is certain is that in 1685 the drink was popular enough to support the opening of a dedicated coffee shop and a Vienna institution was born.
What endears the coffee houses of Vienna to me over, for example, Parisian street cafes, is the ability to take my time without some overbearing waiter trying to rush me onward. The provision of newspapers (including some in English) complements this relaxed, ruminative atmosphere and it’s easy to see why the coffee houses became the favourite haunts of writers and artists. Gustav Klimt in particular was a permanent feature on the coffee house scene. Another regular visitor, where he would discuss his ever more perverse view of the world, was one Adolf Hitler. But I’m confident that this is an unfortunate coincidence and does not reflect on the coffee house culture anymore than the Beer Hall putsch reflects on beer halls.
Traditionally, coffee in Vienna is served with a glass of water although more modern places are disregarding this. I am rather fond of the sausages served as light snacks although some may prefer the pastries and cakes available. If you do not want coffee itself most establishments serve wine or beer and some go as far as whole meals. The selection of refreshments available depends on the type of coffee house with most shops falling into two categories: the rough and ready Kaffeehaus, where working men gather, and the more refined salon. However, the more modern coffee houses do not fit easily into either of these categories.
For those, like me, with minimal German almost all waiters have very good English and are more than happy to talk you through the menu (which is another glaring contrast to Paris). Many of the options will be recognisable to any who have consumed coffee in other parts of the world although there are some irregularities such as a Mozart coffee, which is coffee with a shot of Mozart liqueur, and a Maria Theresa which is with orange liqueur. While each individual will have their favourite specific caf’ two of note are Café Hawelka on Dorotheergasse and Café Central on Herrengasse, which neatly illustrate the differences between Kaffehauses and salons.
Photo of pendant lamp in Café Demel, Vienna, Austria originally posted by nicholas mcgowan
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