but I can say without hesitation there is one café in Florence, which surpasses all others when it comes to brewing a frothy and creamy cup of perfection.

Owned by famed designer Roberto Cavalli, the Caffè Giacosa is nestled in a cozy side street – 10R Villa Della Spada – just off of the city’s designer shopping strip, via Tornabuoni. Situated right next to the Cavalli store, the café seems quaint from the outside yet impossibly chic and decadent upon entering thanks to the trademark Cavalli leopard and zebra print décor captured in the plush seating as well as the tapestries and picture frames adorning the wall.

Many of the locals sing the praises of the cafés warm beverages as well as their pastries and lunch specials which is a sure sign that tourists are going to be impressed. Should you choose to sit, there is a lovely albeit small patio outside where you can enjoy the fresh air and the passersby. Of course, as with most bars and cafés in Italy, there is an added charge for seating which is why most patrons (particularly the locals) prefer to head indoors and stand at the bar. Upon entering there is a cashier seated near the door, be sure to pay here first and then present your receipt at the bar. The barista will expertly whip up your cappuccino into a dainty white porcelain cup and right away you’ll notice how delightfully thick and frothy it is on top. But it doesn’t it doesn’t stop there. The finishing touch is to adorn the froth with a swirl of rich dark chocolate syrup in the shape of a “C” (for Cavailli of course). As if being in Italy isn’t already enough, the first taste will feel like a sip of heaven. A touch more creamy than the typical Italian cappuccino, this smooth and milky creation is always served at just the right temperature to please the palate. It’s the perfect perk before a long day of sightseeing or shopping in the city.

Tip: Italians only drink cappuccinos first thing in the morning, but if you wanted to enjoy a cup at the end of the day, no one would blame you!

A winter escape

During the winter months you can order another specialty, cioccolata calda, which is the Italian version of hot chocolate. Truly indulgent, the Italian method calls for premium melted chocolate to create a bitter-sweet and very thick consistency which will warm your body right down to your bones in no time guaranteed. At Giacosa of course, the finishing touches are as important as the drinks themselves – if desired, the barista will rub a fresh orange rind around the rim of your cup to balance your decadent drink with tart citrus flavour and aroma, or you can choose to add a dollop of fresh whipped cream on top.

Lunch time

Stop in during lunch and you can enjoy warm risotto, pasta, fresh salads and more. The prices may be a bit more premium then the neighboring lunch stops, but the servings are generous and the ambience is hard to beat. There is limited seating so better to arrive before the lunch hour rush at noon if you want to get a table. Before you leave the dining nook, head towards the back of the café to the bakery counter where you can pick up some sweet pastries and desserts to take home. On the way, you’ll also note some racks with beautifully wrapped chocolates, confectionaries and a few home accessories on display which you can purchase as a gift.

After dark

From the month of April until the end of the summer, Giacosa revs up it’s personality to transform into a nightclub after dark. Nothing less than silk Cavalli bed sheets are draped over the coffee machines and out come the cocktails, dimmed lighting and live DJ (some nights it’s Cavalli’s own son) who perches himself at the cashier counter turned DJ booth and gets the crowd moving with tunes from his laptop. If you want to order like a local, ask the bartender for a Negroni (gin, vermouth and Campari) – some say Giacosa is where this Italian favorite originated. The crowd is always stylish with ages ranging from 20s to 40s, a mix of American students and Florentines who have been waiting out the season to dance the night away in the trendiest café turned club in town.

After the agony of waiting in line for hours to enter the famous Uffizi Gallery in Florence, Italy, visitors might hope that they would have a chance to relax and meander casually through a few rooms of renowned artwork, relaxed and carefree. And yet you walk through the first room, turn into the next corridor and suddenly realize that you are confronted with miles and miles of galleries and more Madonna and Child paintings than you ever thought you would see in your entire life. Its helpful to know what is worth visiting in the Uffizi…although all of the art work presented in the Medici’s collection is worthy of consideration it is possible to feel like you’re drowning in religious Renaissance art work. Allow me to help you breathe a bit easier and point out some useful sights. Besides, its embarrassing to wear water wings through an art gallery.

Book your tickets in advance

Before I start with the artwork, allow me to help you reduce stress before you even enter through the doors. If you go to the Uffizi website, it is possible to either book your tickets in advance on the website or to call the phone number listed to avoid a line that is guaranteed to be at least 2 hours long on a fairly busy day (which in reality is every day). On Via Calzaioulli, about 3 blocks south of the Duomo, is a small booth at the side of the road in the building of Orsanmichele. Here you can buy tickets for the Uffizi, the Academia, Palazzo Pitti and a variety of other tourist attractions without having to wait in outrageous lines at the actual museum.

After entering the second floor of the museum…

After entering the second floor of the museum, visitors walk down a corridor adorned with classical sculpture. To the left is a single room housing a few pieces of ancient sculpture and architecture. The frescos on the ceiling of the corridor are known as grotesques, and were painted by a number of artists of the same school and were produced in the 16th century at the end of the Medici reign. The frescos are surreal and almost disturbing, but it is well worth looking up as you walk down to see some well-painted frescos that are completely different both in style and concept from the rest of the museums collection. The first piece of art that is well worth looking at is Giotto’s ‘Ognissanti Maesta’ in Room 2. The painting was executed in the early 14th century, and is a turning point in religious art and ushered in the realism of the Renaissance. The piece shows Madonna and Child, but is note-worthy for the way that the surrounding angels over lap each other in space, so that their heads look like ‘a bunch of grapes’ instead of previous work where each figure is shown in full. In the next room is Martini’s Annunciation, a fine example of the realistic portraiture that began at the start of the Renaissance. The faces are not stylized as in the earlier Byzantine art of that century, and reflect the works of Giotto because of their pale skin and distinct features. The following rooms show many early Renaissance works, which are admirable for their skill but all look very similar.

The next important work is ‘The Adoration of the Magi’ by Gentile de Fabriano. The piece is hanging on the wall opposite the entrance to room 5, and is a masterpiece of realism and composition, particularly with the inclusion of animals that are painted with so much attention that it is hard to imagine that the very 2d works of artists such as Duccio were only 50 years earlier. In the same set of galleries is Verrocchio’s Baptism of Christ, yet another triumph of realism and shows the influence of northern painting on the early Renaissance.

The next room house Pierro della Francesco’s two portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Urbino, portraits that are recognized by the art community as one of the first examples of both highly individual, specific portraits and of the shift from religious art to private secular artwork. With the rise of the rich merchant class in Florence, more and more artwork was commissioned by rich patrons who chose to have portraits of themselves rather than the traditional Bible scenes. This leads us onto the next room, one of the most popular in the Uffizi.

Rooms 10 through 14 are dedicated to Botticelli, one of the greatest artists of the renaissance. His work is almost illustrative in its simplicity, but the grandeur and beauty of paintings such as ‘Primavera’ and ‘Birth of Venus’ are not to be missed, despite the large amounts of tourists. If the crowds around these two paintings are two much, make sure to check out Botticelli’s religious works at the other end of the gallery, which although less famous and magical are striking works of realistic art.

The next room is also incredibly important, housing work by Leonardo DaVinci. Naturally, all the works in this room are spectacular. But one that should be given close attention is the ‘Adoration of the Magi’, an unfinished work by Leonardo that ushered in a new stage of drama and independent thought in religious works. Pay close attention to the architecture, which shows an understanding of perspective not even dreamt about by the artists in the first few rooms of the museum.

From this point on it is easy to become exhausted, especially upon realizing you haven’t even reached a halfway point. Let me recommend some rooms that are of special interest and are worth seeing for their historical and artistic relevance. The Duhrer works in Room 20, showcase many drawings by the German master that must not be missed, and then further on through the gallery in Room 25 is the ‘Doni Tondo’ by Michelangelo Buonarotti. As with all Michelangelo’s work it is startingly colorful and breath-taking, and definitely a good warm-up if you are planning traveling south to Rome and the Sistine Chapel. Rooms 26 through 28 also show some amazing works of high Renaissance (for example Raphael’s ‘Madonna with the goldfinch’, Parmigianno’s ‘Madonna with the Long Neck’ and Titian’s ‘Venus of Urbino’). These works all lead up to a much more individual and conceptual period in artwork, that of Mannerism, that would follow the Renaissance.

Get a membership card

I highly recommend continuing around the museum, but it is understandable if you are beginning to see everyone in the galleries with halo’s and feel the need of a change of scene. It is also a good idea to invest in a ‘Friends of the Uffizi’ card if you are in Florence for more than a week. It is only 40 euros, and would allow you to come and go to the all the state museums as many times as you wish without waiting in line. For more information on the works in the Uffizi and for the membership card, visit www.uffizi.com and http://www.amicidegliuffizi.it/homenglish.html

Photo of the Uffizi Gallery by cfwee

Having never been to Italy before, I wasn’t sure what to expect aside from the things my parents, who are from Sicily had told me. I had never left Canada before, was 2 weeks away from turning 26 and going to Florence on my own to work as an au pair. The things I learned and will pass on to other woman in my position were never mentioned in the guidebooks I read ; hopefully they’ll be helpful to you.

1. they have button stores, glove stores, door knob stores but no stores where you can buy any of these things in the same place. If you want a wal-mart type deal, stay in north America.

2. you can’t return purchases so buyer beware! The only way you can return anything is if it is electronic (like a curling iron) and even then you don’t get the money back, you get a new one or they actually fix it for you.

3. if you can’t speak Italian, TRY. Even if you know one word, use it. If you have to ask someone whether they speak English, ask them in Italian ; they will find you less annoying.

4. If you tell anyone you are from Canada be ready for them to guess Toronto then Vancouver. If you are from America, it’s Los Angeles or New York. Most people won’t guess anywhere smaller unless they have a personal connection there.

5. When you go into an internet cafe, be ready to give up your passport. I use my provincial I.D. because my passport is my baby, but in any case you will need some form of I.D. and if you don’t have it, you cant use the net or phone. They have strict terrorist laws here.

6. Cell phones are extremely cheap. If you are here for over a month in a stable residence I suggest to buy one for 30euro and you get 5euro airtime included with that. No contracts, no sign up fees, just 30 euro and you’re set. Calls are 9 cents a min within the country and so are texts. You can reload your charge card at any corner store.

7.Don’t ride the bus without a ticket! If you do and get caught you will pay a 45euro fine within 5 days or they’ll come to your residence looking for you. I doubt it’s worth the risk.

8. Sizes here are not the same as they are in North America so it’s a good idea to look up your shoe size on a conversion chart online. Nothing is worse than going into an Italian shoe store and telling them your size is uh… I don’t know”. For clothing it is a bit different because they generally go by S,M,L but lots of places use another system, so be ready or just try on clothes and have fun!

9. Know that everyone you meet will ask you these things :

Where are you from?
Do you understand Italian? (why not?)
How long are staying for?
How long have you been here?
Are you studying, working or on vacation?

They will most likely as you these things in Italian.

10. If someone tells you they speak a little Italian, they mean it. It is best to find someone around 20-40 years old if you want to have an unbroken conversation. I found middle aged businessmen were my best bet because their work must require the necessary relations; they never let me down.

11. Men pray on foreign women ; not all men but many. Don’t be scared or worried ; lots of North American women come overseas to live it up so if these men think you’re one of those women, they will ask. Be prepared to hear something along the lines of ” but you’re in Italy, have fun!” if you decline.

12. The scenery and history is so beautiful you won’t believe it is actually 2009

13. The gelato is amazing. You will never find it better anywhere else.

14. With cars parking on meridians and driving on sidewalks, the disorganization of traffic will likely scare you, but you get used to seeing accidents nearly daily.

15. Some of the friendliest people you meet will be the storekeepers in the shops you frequent. I go to the same places several times a week and they know me when I come in and even speak English for me.

17. When you take money out of your bank account remember two things :

• There is a minimum charge of approx 5euro (plus whatever you pay back home)

• It’s costing you nearly one and a half times more than CDN dollars so when you take out that 200euro it’s actually about $345.00 which equals $145 in the trash.

18. You are here to have fun so go ahead and spend that cash. Just remember that if you see something at the street market and want it bad, you will get it. Barter with the vendor and he wont let you get away. I got 3 pieces of jewelry for 15euro when they should have cost me 30euro.

19. Beware of birds overhead! I have seen many a sued jacket and nice up-dos ruined without warning..

20. You will most likely not get robbed! People scared me nearly to death with horror stories about this. You do not need a money belt in Florence. All you need is confidence and common sense. Walk around like you were born there and you will be fine. Just don’t flash your $5000 camera while wearing your I LOVE NYC shirt at the train station at night and you’ll be fine.

21. Florence’s public washrooms leave much to be desired. Avoid places like Mcdonald’s because you may find a stall with toilet paper and you may find a stall with a locking door but you will never find both. The best places to go when you’re desperate are the tariff WCs which cost 50-80 cents upon entrance. They are cleaned and re-stocked regularly.

Well ladies, I hope you learned a little bit from these inside tips. Be safe and awesome travels!

Photo woman visiting Rome by Gret@Lorenz

Working as an au pair on a fixed income, I shopped around but always ended up at the same 5 places when I wanted to buy something new without much cash to buy it with.

5. Ciao Ciao

You can find several of these around Florence and conveniently enough there is one directly across the street from  the main train station. This is the place to go when you need the basics ; underwear, socks, tee shirts I got a jacket here for 10 euro and three scarves for 3 euro each! They often have huge sales which is great because 90% of the merchandise is already under 20 euro.

4. Oviesse

This is a chain that is everywhere in Florence. It is a bit more costly than a student/traveler may be used to but carries something for everyone. Here you can find office wear, a huge assortment of casual skirts and tops plus baby clothes and a full department for men in addition to the shoes and accessories offered. Most items I purchased here were in the 22 euro range.

3. Piazza Italia

Piazza Italia is the same idea as Oviesse but offers clothing that is more dressy. A majority of the apparel in this two storey shop is black and business. There are several accessories and shoes as well as purses and men’s selections. This is the place to shop if you’re looking for upper class casual but not overly formal for around 25euro.

2. Promod

Promod is by far my favorite place to shop in Florence. Everything in this store was funky and fresh ; two things I love about new clothes! The look definitely says “put together lady” and the prices are very reasonable, especially the sale room in the back of the store! Skirts, tops, jewelry, it’s all here but the one thing that really makes me stop and walk in is the huge selection of beautiful dresses. Whether you’re dancing at the club, going on a date, having a girl’s night out or need something for that special occasion, they’ve got you covered. Prices average in the 35 euro mark.

1. San Lorenzo Market

I am definitely one for unique finds and the market has it all. You can find a complete outfit with jewelry to compliment for 30 euro; depending on your bartering skills. You will often find “2 for” deals and because there is so much competition amongst vendors, you will most often get the price you ask for – just don’t offer anything too insulting, these people work like crazy. If you need a great pair of boots or shoes, there is plenty of choice on the street as well as in surrounding shops. Don’t forget to stop for a gelato on your way home!

Photo of Euro coins by Nils Geylen

Piazzale Michelangelo

Piazzale Michelangelo has the views of Florence and beyond. All you have to do is turn around once you walk the hike up through San Niccolo, up further as you start to get your camera out to take your first picture of Florence, you must press on to the tippy top. Once there, enjoy the markets, vendors with refreshing beverages and ice cream. Now what you see straight ahead of you is Fiesole up on the hill with the tiny bell tower in the middle. Fiesole is reached by bus number 7 to the end of the line.  To your right from Fiesole you will see below the stadium lights hanging over the Fiorentina soccer field. As you keep turning to your right you will find fields of olive groves and the Arno river heading in the direction of Monte Falterona where the river originates. Turning towards the city center, you will see the gorgeous Florence skyline. Containing the bell tower of Santa Croce, Il Duomo, Il Campinle, Palazzo Vecchio, and last but not least the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). Sunset is a great time to capture the perfect Florence backdrop.

San Miniato

San Miniato al Monte can be reached from Piazzale Michelangelo. Follow the path to the church, where you see all those stairs. The stairs will lead you to a spectacular view of Florence. Sitting higher than Piazzale Michelangelo, you will see much, much more of the city. There is tradition I have, I make a pack dinner and escape the day to watch the sunset. It is breathtaking. If you happen to plan to stay all afternoon, at around 5 pm on certain days, the Monks of San Miniato will chant in the crypt of the church. Very calming and relaxing.

Fiesole

Fiesole has an array of vistas you can walk to easily from where bus 7 drops you in Piazza Mino. As you walk off the bus standing facing the bus, you will see the main Cathedral. Cross the street so you are right next to it. You will see a steep hill on your left. That is your path. Climb up slowly and periodically turning around to get a nice shot of the valleys surrounding Fiesole. Once you reach the top, you will be out of breath and ready to let it sink in. What a gorgeous view! On a clear day, you will have a perfect shot of the center as it stands like a miniature city. If it happens to be a foggy or gloomy day, take the picture anyways. It is a fabulous viewpoint nonetheless. The other picture perfect is on the other side of Piazza Mino. Following Via Giuseppe Verdi up the winding road, where you will see little old Italian men and women carrying heavy groceries up, you will once again know when you are at the view point. There is plenty of residences around that says to you, “I wish I lived right there” pointing at the terrace looking out to Florence. You may keep following the path up and up to an even better view. I could sit up there for hours just taking pictures.

Florence Cathedral

Santa Maria del Fiore (also known as il Duomo) has a nice workout as well as another place to take that one perfect shot. A great opportunity to see this fabulous view is to walk the 463 steps to the tippy top. There is a small fee for this exercise but it is well worth it. You have a 360 degree view of the hills that surround this Renaissance gem! Afterwards you can drag yourself to the nearest pizzeria and have a large Calzone.

Florence Bridges

Any Ponte (Bridge) can give you the shot of your dreams. Either you can face the Ponte Vecchio or spin around to the hills sweeping alongside Florence as if they were waves in an ocean. Nothing beats the capture of you standing on the ancient bridge looking east or west. But always try to enjoy the view of the Ponte Vecchio from wherever you are standing.

Photo of photographer taking pictures of Florence, Tuscany by acidcookie

BM Bookshop

BM Bookshop has been around 1963 although I consider this a new treasure of a bookshop. I recently found it on a quiet street intersecting Piazza Ognissanti where the river Arno seems to jump out at you. The books available to you are like the store, rare. Every time I entered this little hole in the wall, I am the only one perusing the merchandise. The woman that works inside is very friendly and helpful. The difference between the larger bookstores and BM, you are assisted kindly with every title you are looking for. Anything you are in need of, you will be able to find it here. From art history, cooking, architecture, translations from Italian authors. You can find the books that you wouldn’t normally find in the larger stores. There are always sales as well at BM, travel along the river Arno until you see the Westin and the Grand Hotel facing each other in Piazza Ognissanti. Borgo Ognissanti will bring you to the bookshop that is authentic Florence.

BM BOOKSHOP
Borgognissanti, 4/r
50123 Florence, Italy
Tel & fax: +39 055 294575
(Mon-Sat 9.30am 7.30pm)
Info: bmbookshop@dada.it
Web: bmbookshop.com

Paperback Exchange

Paperback Exchange started back 1979 and since been a token bookstore in Florence for students. A small family business that has flourished over the years, brings a friendly feel to the city center. Sitting at the end of Via delle Oche, Paperback Exchange lures the unexpected tourists in by it’s big windows of the latest book releases and most popular art history. Students are assisted by the helpful staff who speak English, if you forget the name of the book you need to purchase there is a list of the schools who use the Paperback Exchange that sell the textbooks to their students. Although they are not divided by professor, just by school name. Just ask a kind assistant.

Paperback Exchange
Via delle Oche, 4Red
50122 Firenze, Italy
Email: papex@papex.it
Phone: +39.055.293460
Fax: +39.055.2658395

Italian bookshops in Florence

The three Italian bookstores listed below have a large section of all books both in Italian and English. They are much bigger than the little shops above and are a bit more crowded. If you know exactly what book you need and where to find it, these are the bookstores to enter. As the assistants here are a bit more busy than the ones at the smaller ones, but it never hurts to ask one of them if you need some guidance. These bookshops are great if you want to not be bothered, to sit and read an excerpt of a book. Couches are spread throughout the store and Edison has a great cafe on the second floor where you can enjoy an espresso or cappuccino with your book. Here are the addresses of each of these larger stores in guiding you to the right book selection for you, either for school or for pleasure.

Mel Bookstore
Via de’ Cerretani, 16r
Phone: +39 055.287339
Fax: +39 055.215195
Info: melfirenze@melbookstore.it

La Feltrinelli International
Via Cavour, 12 – 50129 Florence FI
La Feltrinelli Librerie
Via de’ Cerretani, 30/32r – 50123 Florence FI
web: lafeltrinelli.it

Edison Bookstore
Piazza Repubblica 27/R – 50123 Florence FI
Phone: +39 055-213-110

Photo of book store in Florence, Italy by Rosino

Each one of these elegant hotels located in the city’s historical center is the perfect place to stay either on a romantic getaway or a cultural holiday in Tucany.

1. Hotel Santa Maria Novella

The Hotel Santa Maria Novella offers charming guest rooms close to Florence train station. In addition to a great location, this elegant landmark hotel boasts 19th Century art works and features lovely honeymoon suites. Enjoying splendid views of Santa Maria Novella Cathedral, this is the perfect Florence hotel for a romantic stay in Tuscany.

2. Hotel The Westin Excelsior Florence

The Westin Excelsior is one of the most beautiful luxury hotels in Florence. Housed in a 17th Century building, this Starwood Hotel offers contemporary accommodations in the heart of Renaissance Florence, close to Ponte Vecchio, Uffizi Gallery and Pitti Palace. The Westin Excelsior Hotel  also boasts splendid interiors featuring, original furnishings, inlaid marble, columns, coffered ceilings, frescoes and brocades.

3. Grand Hotel Baglioni

The Grand Hotel Baglioni offers accommodation in central Florence, a few steps from Santa Maria Novella railway station. Once residence of the Carrega Bertolini Princes, this lovely landmark hotel is housed in a 19th Century palace which features numerous art works including frescoes, statues, paintings and traditional wooden beams. A symbol of the Tuscan hospitality, the Grand Hotel Baglioni combines modern comfort with the charm and elegance of historic Florence.

4. Hotel Pierre

This Florence Historic Hotel offers guest rooms close to the Uffizi Gallery, Piazza della Signoria, the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio. The Hotel Pierre welcomes you in a cozy environment featuring classic Italian furniture, parquet flooring and marble.  A great hotel in Florence for art lovers interested in the city’s historical landmarks and museums.

5. Hotel J and J Florence

The J and J Florence is a landmark hotel housed in a 16th Century monastery. Located in the historical center of Florence, a short walk from the Duomo cathedral, Santa Croce, and the River Arno, the Hotel J and J boasts beautiful interiors with well-preserved frescoes and plaster works, as well as a cloister with doric columns.

There is the elegant, expensive approach: spend an evening at a palazzo or a fine restaurant with a special menu and pay over 100 euro a person (but this does include dancing and drinking). Or, you could bring in the New Year without breaking the bank—there are loads of fantastic activities for you to do in the city without spending a cent. I recommend the second approach. Spend the night in the gorgeous outdoors, walking from piazza to piazza to take in all of the festive celebrations. On this night it seems all the people of Florence are out, and the energy is exhilarating.

Here are just a few inexpensive events Florence has to offer for New Year’s Eve:

• New Year’s Eve at the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio

Start out your evening at Sant’Ambrogio Market, where you can take in some local live music while you snack on British “fish and chips” (reasonably priced!).

• The Piazzas

Across the river, in the neighborhood called “Oltrarno,” enjoy a free classical concert at the grand Pitti Palace, before heading to the nearby Piazza Santo Spirito for a glass of wine and some live Italian music.

Later, at Piazza Santa Croce you can treat yourself to Verdi and Strauss by the Philharmonic Orchestra of the European Lyric Theater. The maestro is Giuseppe Lanzetta.

• Fireworks

Stand on the Ponte alle Grazie and watch magnificent fireworks light up the sky over the Arno—you can usually see these throughout the night.

• New Year’s Day

The next morning, after getting plenty of sleep, finish off the musical festivities with a free concert at 11:30am at the Teatro del Maggio Muscale by students from the Scuola di Musica di Fiesole.

Photo of Florence at night originally posted by dann:*

The city undergoes such a magical transformation that every night in December feels like a holiday. Christmas lights, in all of their elegant variety, dangle over the city’s otherwise dark streets; trees set within wooden boxes line the wide Via Callimala; and nearly every shop is decorated with colorful Christmas wreaths and ribbons. In the Piazza della Repubblica, a giant tree stands in the center, and next to it spins the bright red and gold carousel.

And then there are the activities: there are so many wonderful — and inexpensive — things to do in Florence that you may not have time to do them all.

Florence Christmas Market

First, there are the Christmas markets. In Florence, the most well-known market is the German market in Piazza Santa Croce, otherwise known as Mercato Tedesco di Natale. From December 3 through December 21, Florentines and tourists alike wander the aisles of decorated booths selling everything from German strudel to traditional pottery to handcrafts and Christmas candy for the kids. At the end of the market is a large “carousel” for adults (it spins very slowly): here you can partake in some hot spiced wine and a bratwurst.

Ice Skating in Florence

After visiting the markets, why not spend the afternoon ice skating? Because it’s not quite cold enough in Florence to skate on the Arno, the city of Florence offers an outdoor rink at Parterre, near Piazza della Libertà, from December 1 through January 13. For just six euro you can rent skates and glide on the ice listening to Christmas music. On Christmas Day, Santa Claus will stop by for a visit. Note that ice skating isn’t just for children: on the weekends you can skate until 1am.

Florence Nativity Scenes

You could also make a day of visiting one presepio (nativity scene) after another. Usually beginning December 8, which is the day of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, until the end of the season, churches throughout Florence display their nativity scenes. While they are beautiful to see during the day, at night they can be stunning (pictured is the presepio of the Church of Santa Maria Novella).

Free classical concerts in Florence

And yet another gift from Florence is the gift of music: free classical concerts take place nearly every night in the city. Spend an evening listening to Debussy in Orsanmichele or Mozart in the Church of San Frediano in Cestello, and then the same evening listen to Haden at the Church of San Firenze.

In Florence it’s easy to get swept up in the magic of Christmas. While there may be a recession going on, here you forget about not having enough and to instead reflect on how much you have. Florence has a way of teaching you how to appreciate the simple joys in life, and during Christmas, this lesson hits home even more.

The rolling hills, diagonal sloping vineyards, clear skies and spectacular light are just a few of the elements that take your breath away while traveling throughout this province in northern Italy. Its no wonder that artists in Florence, Pisa and other northern Italian cities re-defined images of perfection and beauty during the Renaissance, when they were surrounded by the natural wonder that is the Tuscan countryside. However, most people traveling through Tuscany normally stop in the major cities that house the largest concentration of famous museums, architecture and seats of culture. However, once you leave the large cities, there is a wealth of smaller towns that once seen redefine your image of Tuscany. The benefits of cheap Italian transportation means that most towns within 2 hours of Florence can be reached by bus or train for €5-7. And when you consider that some bowls of gelato in Florence cost €5, paying the same for a day trip out to the country is a steal.

For the more adventurous, it is incredibly easy to buy a bus ticket and head out into the hills. Make sure that you know if there is a bus back to the city that afternoon (nearly every town within an hour of Florence has at least 5 buses heading back into the city, even on Sundays), and then just hop off the bus at a small town that appeals to you. The air is so much clearer, and although there is rarely much to ‘do’ in the smaller country towns, the hills and vineyards make for spectacular photos. Also, the food in smaller rural restaurants is often far better than food in the city and costs half as much. Towns I can personally recommend are Greve in Chianti, Borgo San Lorenzo and Poggibonsi.

For visitors who are less sure about just jumping off a bus in the middle of nowhere, my absolute highest recommendation is to take a day trip out to Lucca. Located around an hour away from Florence by train, and half an hour from Pisa, Lucca is a small but significant jewel in the Tuscan crown. The train from Florence costs €5 and run frequently seven days a week. Lucca is nestled in among a chain of large, majestic hills (which visitors from flatter locales may call full-on mountains) and is mostly contained within the old medieval city walls.

Lucca was first settled by Tuscan tribes, then occupied by the Romans. The traces of the Roman amphitheater can still be seen in the centre of town, now a picturesque circle of houses around the ‘Piazza del Amfiteatro’. The city then followed the path of many Italian cities and was thrown back and forth between various monarchs and aristocrats, and by the 17th century was the largest city-state after Venice and controlled over 70 ‘districts’ in the region. This ended in the 19th century when it was handed over to Napoleon’s sister.

The amount of change and turmoil undertaken in the small city is very clear to see, as there are an astonishing number of beautiful Romanesque/gothic churches in a very small area, as powerful families attempted to out-weigh their counterparts. The Duomo in Lucca is the most beautiful with its façade of colonnades, but the Church of San Michele in Foro and the Basilica di Santi Frediano are also well-worth a look.

The main street is lined with modern fashion shops, but once you turn off into some of the smaller shadowed streets, silence sets in. But the centre of the city is very like the small streets of Siena, Florence or Pisa. It is the city wall that sets Lucca apart. At the base of the city walls are pastures of grass (previously used for grazing livestock when the entire population lived within the walls) where children kick a football around, families meet up to eat and talk and teenagers lie on top of each other whispering sweet Italian nothings.

Around the top of the wall is a tree-lined bicycle path where people walk with their children, and elderly men circle around the 5-kilometer perimeter. The views offered around the city wall are astonishing…the mountains loom up on every side of the city, making you feel like Lucca is a little bubble in the Tuscan countryside, a town set apart from the rest of the world somehow. At dusk, the setting sun colors the mountains in deep reds and purples, a sight that even manages to rival Michelangelo’s ‘David’ or the ‘Mona Lisa’. On the side of the city opposite the train station is Piazza Santa Maria, where there are several shops to rent bikes. The rental fee is only €2,50 per hour, which is more than enough to enjoy a refreshing ride around the edge of the wall, taking in the fresh air and the brilliant scenery.

If you find that Lucca is somewhere that you want to stay overnight or for a few days, there are quite a few hotels, and Hostel San Frediano is a Hostelling International sight in the centre of the town.

There are also several state museums in Lucca, including the home of the opera-composer and Lucca-native Pucini. In July/August, there is an opera festival celebrating Pucini featuring outdoor performances and fairs.

So if you feel like you’ve only seen the largest cities on your trip through northern Italy, I highly recommend train/busing it out into the country. Transportation is cheap and easily accessible in Italy, making it simple to explore the guilded-edges of Tuscan culture and countryside. For more information on train times, visit www.trenitalia.it

Photo of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro in Lucca, Italy,originally posted by RedGlow82

From the church of San Lorenzo and the surrounding street market, down past the Accademia, Duomo and Uffizi Gallery the tourists are often so thick that I’ve taken to attaching a small plow to the front of my bike just so I can get around. However, there are also many absolutely beautiful locations with a few Italians sitting around relaxing, and next to no tourists.

• Le Cascine

Looking west down the River Arno (standing on the Ponte Vecchio, look towards where Santa Maria Novella train station is), there is a huge amount of parkland just 15-20 minutes walk outside of the centre of the city, called Le Cascine. Walk straight down the river and you’ll come to a large road that loops around the city. On the other side of this, there is a few miles of wooded parkland that is quiet enough to sooth anyone’s crowd claustrophobia. As parks go, I don’t think that it is as gorgeous as city parks such as Hyde Park in London or Jardins de Luxembourg in Paris, but after the crushing pace of the historic centre, it’s idyllic. Unlike the centre city where walls pen the River Arno in between the buildings, grassy slopes roll down to the edge of the river. On Tuesdays there is a large market along the wide strip of concrete that snakes along the riverside where Italians roller-blade and ride their bikes, unafraid of hitting tourists who are standing in the middle of the roads taking photos. Also around the park a little news and coffee stands, where you can find old Italians playing chess under the trees, or families sitting around in the grass.

• San Miniato

Another quiet place to visit is behind the city wall that separates the area of Monte Alle Croci, where the San Miniato church is located. When you walk through Porta San Miniato, you can take an immediate right and walk up a steep hill along the back of the medieval city wall. Not only is there no-one around, but the road soon turns into a small, stone-walled country lane. The noise of the city has disappeared, and if you jump up and looking over the walls running down the cobbled road, all you can see are beautiful houses, fields and olive orchards. If you are visiting San Miniato, I highly recommend taking a detour and exploring this remarkable little passage where you can walk two minutes to arrive in the Tuscan countryside.

• Gardens of Bobolino

While in this area of Florence, there are also the gardens in the Bobolino district. These gardens are not part of the official Boboli Gardens, but are well-manicured public gardens that rest on the hill sloping down towards the centre of the city. On any fine day you can walk around the gardens, sit and read by one of the many fountains, or just lie in the sun. With so many areas of Florence restricted to narrow, shadow-filled streets its an immense relief (especially for a country boy like myself) to get somewhere quiet and open. If you follow the main road that winds around the gardens and down the hill, past the Instituto d’Arte you arrive at Porta Romana, one of the many gateways into the historic city.

• Boboli Gardens

Right around the corner from the public gardens of Bobolino, is the spectacular and historic Giardino di Boboli. Although when you walk up to the Palazzo Pitti it may seem like just another tourist hot-spot, once you walk beyond the palace itself you’ll find some of the most beautiful court gardens you could hope to see in Italy.

The size of the gardens is immense, meaning that even on a day when the line to the museums inside the Palace are out the door, there is always somewhere within the gardens, hidden away between well-coifed hedges and curling ewe trees where there is no-one else to be seen. The palace itself was built in the late 15th century by Lucia Pitti, a wealthy Florentine banker. Unfortunately, the project was so grand that it bankrupted the Pitti family, and the Medici’s moved in a few years after completion. The Medici’s expanded the already large gardens, to a size that matches the distance of San Lorenzo Church to the Arno River.

Directly behind the building is the ‘Amfiteatro’, a sight for the duchy’s of Florence to entertain their guests. As you keep climbing the steep hill beyond the palace, visitors pass the noble ‘Fontana Neptuno’, and can carry on up towards the Porcelain Museum. Although the museum itself is just a small, 5-room building, the gardens outside look over the countryside surrounding the city. It is hard to believe that while you are looking across the rolling hills and beautiful vista’s of Tuscan country, the bustling city of Florence is right behind you. Few people stay up near the Porcelain Museum for very long, so its an ideal place for some undisturbed reading and a breath-taking view. If you continue around to the left of the Fontana Neptuno, the gardens continue down the hill, also heading towards Porta Romana. The paths wind through orchards, around fountains, through dense woods in a way that makes you seem like you’re walking some magical path through all of Tuscany condensed into a single garden.

Florence is a beautiful city, but even the most gorgeous architecture cannot replace the occasional urge to sit under a tree or look out from the edge of some fountain over rolling hills. So I encourage any visitors to leave the historic centre for a few hours, and discover the rarely seen quiet beauty of the city.

Photo of man sleeping in Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence, Tuscany originally posted by kikmoyoo

If you’re planning a trip soon, here are some very important tips to help you save cash while visiting Florence and make the most of your time in this magical city:

• Breakfast

Ideally, you’ll want to find a hotel that offers a free or reasonably priced breakfast. However, if that’s not an option or you just want to head out early, do the smart thing and go to a café (or bar) and eat standing up. It may sound strange but it could be a difference of a few euro if you do not sit at a table. Simply order your chocolate pastry and cappuccino at the bar, enjoy, and then pay the cashier when you’re done. One charming café I prefer is Chiaroscuro (Via del Corso, 36r). A cappuccino at the bar should set you back one euro!

• Lunch

During the day, you’ll probably be very active, running around between the Uffizi Gallery, Santa Croce, and the Accademia where Michelangelo’s David lives. For a lunch break on the go, do yourself a delicious favor and stop by the on-the-street bar I Tre Fratelli, on Via dei Cimatori, just off of the main shopping street Via dei Calzaiuoli. There the two friendly brothers will take your order for a panino (choose from dozens of tantalizing options: salami and fennel, roast turkey, and vegetarian are just a few) and a glass of wine. Together this meal will cost about 4 euro. Set your wine glass on the wooden shelves outside and talk with other patrons about how ridiculously good the panini are. You’ll see Italians here, too, not just tourists.

• Aperitivo

Several bars throughout Florence offer their version of “happy hour.” For the price of a glass of wine (maybe 5-7 euro), you can pile onto your plate appetizing treats such as risotto, pasta salad, and prosciutto-wrapped melon. The hours for aperitivi are rather late in the evening, say 7:30, compared to an American happy hour, because Italians tend to dine later. For a fun atmosphere and an excellent aperitivo, I point you to Moyo, on Via dei Benci, 23r, just down the street from Piazza Santa Croce. The food is sumptuous and could very well serve as your dinner!

• Dinner

So you’ve been tiring yourself out all day and you finally want to relax and have a nice, quiet sit-down meal. I have no higher recommendation for a great meal at a great price than Trattoria il Contadino (which means “trattoria for the peasant farmer”), on Via Palazzuolo, 71r. For the fixed price of 11 euro, you’ll be treated to a first course (primo), second course (secondo), a side dish (contorno), a large water, or a small carafe of house wine, as well as exceptional service (which is also included in the price). The waiter will read off to you their daily menu, which may include ribollita (a traditional Florentine hearty bean-vegetable-bread soup), chicken cacciatore, and roasted potatoes (they have the best!). The waitstaff speaks English as well. Follow up your filling meal with an espresso and a Tiramisù, for just a little extra.

Photo of food stall in Florence, Tuscany originally posted by Alaskan Dude

Dear Travel Agony Aunt, Florence to Lucca, on a Saturday afternoon. Train or bus? Any suggestions for day trips from Lucca, as I will be there for four days. Also, how do I check out concerts in Lucca and Florence? I will be there in September. Thanks!
L. Brock, age 58, from Ottawa, Canada

Dear L. Brock,

I’ve travelled around Tuscany many times now and I’m very glad to help you out. So let’s begin with your first question. Lucca can be easily reached both by train or bus service from Florence in approximately 1.3 h travel time. Trains to Lucca depart every 30 minutes from Santa Maria Novella station in Florence and arrive at Lucca’s railway station on Piazza Ricasoli. I definitely suggest you to take the train: regional trains in Italy are really very cheap and sometimes more reliable than buses.

I have several ideas regarding day trips from Lucca. Of course, the most popular destination is Pisa, with its famous Leaning Tower, only 30 minutes by train. But there are several interesting hill towns just north of Lucca like Barga, Castelnuovo and Bagni di Lucca, all accessible by bus. This region called Garfagnana is best explored by car and will reveal some spectacular scenery. Throughout the summer months many traditional festivals take place in each of the villages and offer delicious local specialties. Other popular city destinations well worth a visit are the charming medieval town of Pistoia, that can be reached in just 1 h by train, and Carrara, famous all over the world for its valued white marble.

Viareggio, in Versilia, is one of the most famous beach resorts in Tuscany and not far away lies Torre del Lago, a quiet and small seaside town known for being the home of Giacomo Puccini. His house is open to the public and attracts tourists from all over the world. 2008 is the 150th anniversary of his birth and special events and exhibitions are dedicated to the Italian composer in all the province of Lucca. For further information check out these two websites (www.puccini2008.it and www.puccinielasualucca.com). The Lucca opera season runs from September to December and surely it will be an exciting experience to see one of Puccini’s operas in the city where he was born!

Hope I’ve helped another traveler in agony and maybe my loyal readers would like to give you some more advice based on their own experience. Good luck!

Photo of tuscany originally posted by andrew chang

Starting at Brunelleschi’s first commission as an architect, the Ospedale degli Innocenti, which cemented his unique style and approach to building, we will wind our way through the historical center of the city. We will explore tucked-away chapels, hidden churches and airy piazzas, all the while learning about the man behind these structures and the lasting legacy he left behind in the city which now carries his indelible fingerprint.

This three hour walk costs 60 euro per person.

For more information and booking, please visit the Context Travel website.

Photo of Florence Cathedral, Italy originally posted by auggie tolosa

These days, with budget airlines and a plethora of hotels to choose from, one is spoilt for choice when it comes to transport and accommodation – and it is very easy to find a good deal. But the lifestyle in metropolitan Italy is notoriously lavish. Is there also a way to enjoy the city in an economical way? Our answer is YES! if you stick to these five simple steps

• Eat Local

You are in the middle of a country proud of using good, simple ingredients in tasty food. Remember those Olilvio adverts? There is nowhere better to get a rustic meal than in the Mediterranean, so don’t think that you need to go to a posh restaurant for that memorable holiday meal. Grab a slice of pizza (not caked in god-knows-what kind of cheese like at the hut!) and a pot of gelato for a scoop of what some of our most popular foods taste like authentically.

• Travel on Foot

Unlike a lot of cities in Europe, the public transport system in Florence isn’t terribly comprehensive. Perhaps for a good reason, as most things are within walking distance if you pick a fairly centrally-located hotel, like the Hotel de la Ville. A city sightseeing tour is recommended for those who need to know what the key attractions are, but with the money you could save on travel overall, you could afford a short horse-drawn carriage ride around the Ponte Vecchio area at dusk.

• Get a good Guide Book

A lot of tourists fall into extra expenses by relying on hotel staff, tour guides, and taxis to advise them on their day-to-day activities, all of which come at a premium. Invest in a guide book with a good map that you can flick through on the plane to find the places you will truly enjoy. If you’ve booked in advance, do an internet search to find those little-known niche places of interest.

• Dove siamo?

Three simple words (meaning “where are we?”) can get you further than you think if you’re lost, and can avoid those embarrassing “I am a tourist who expects you to speak English” moments. Indeed, the more Italian phrases you can pick up, the easier it will be to blend in on your trip, and stand a better chance at haggling in the markets off the Via Porta Rossa.

• Watch your Entrance

Unfortunately, most attractions in Florence have compulsory entrance fees, which are unavoidable. But you can avoid adding unnecessary fees to this yourself. The cheapest way to book is on the day, at the attraction, despite what guide books and your hotel will tell you. You will end up having to queue to buy pre-booked (and surcharged) tickets anyway, so the extra charge is unnecessary. Also look out for child, senior citizen, and student discounts, which should apply across the EU.

Picture of the River Arno, Florence originally posted by Strocchi

Panzanella born on the fields of Tuscany grown with passion. Living a hard life, the farmers produced this amazing and fresh salad from the ground. When they were working during the summer, they would arise from sleep at around 3 am and then by 4 am be out in the fields harvesting the crops. As 8 am came around, the sun starting to warm the earth, they came in for breakfast. Bringing the necessary ingredients from the garden:

basil leaves
cucumbers
tomatoes
red onions

Soaking the day old bread in water so it is easy to break apart. Then mixing all the ingredients together, tossing with olive oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. How easy is that? By the time 11am struck, the farmers were back home having seconds of the Panzanella from the morning break.

Panzanella recipe:

Day old Tuscan bread
2 Tomatoes
1 Cucumber
1 Red Onion
15 leaves of Basil
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Red Wine Vinegar
Ground Pepper
Salt

First you soak the bread in a bowl of cold water until the bread has absorbed the water. Then chop the tomatoes, red onions, and place in a bowl. Peal the cucumber and chop. Add to bowl with tomatoes and red onions. When the bread has soaked up the water, remove from bread and squeeze out the water into the sink and crumble into pieces and place in a new bowl. Then add the bread to the tomatoes, red onions, and cucumber. Season with salt and pepper, olive oil and vinegar. Add more olive oil to make the bread more manageable to toss until completely mixed.

Photo of homemade panzanella originally posted by fugzu

1. La Sala, La Panca (Greve in Chianti)

Surrounded by 45 acres of parkland, La Sala farm home offers comfortable accommodation in the area of Greve in Chianti, Tuscany. Featuring three apartments housed in a beautiful, picturesque Tuscan farm house and an old barn, La Sala boasts a vast garden with outdoor swimming pool and barbecue, the perfect setting for either a romantic break or a family vacation in Tuscany.

Situated on Via Francigena pilmigrage route, 19 miles south of Florence and 26 miles north of Siena, Greve in Chianti is a great base to explore Tuscany and the splendid Chianti wine district. Some of the main sights of interest in the area are the Franciscan monastery in Greve’s old town and the Castle of Verrazzano.

2. Podere Poggetto, Barberino Val d’Elsa

Located in Barberino Val d’Elsa, about 9 miles from San Geminiano, Podere Poggetto is a small farm house nestled amongst the splendid Chianti hills. Perfect for a relaxing family holiday in Tuscany, the house features two apartments and offers leisure facilities including outdoor swimming pool, barbecue, bowls game, table tennis, as well as children playground with slide and swing.

Lying on the Cassia, the road which connects Florence to Rome, Barberino Val d’Elsa boasts a beautiful medieval old town and offers breathtaking views over the splendid Chianti vineyards and olive groves.

3. Il Piastrino, Vinci

Located about 1 mile from Vinci town center, Il Piastrino farm house offers good value accommodation in the very heart of Tuscany. Boasting a friendly atmosphere, the house is a great place to stay for both gourmets and nature lovers. Il Piastrino farm home has a large garden with outdoor swimming pool and offers guests delicious home produced Chianti wine, vino santo, olive oil, honey and biscuits.

Surrounded by the Tuscan hills and situated only 20 minutes from Florence and 30 minutes from Pisa, Vinci is picturesque city also known for being the birthplace of Renaissance painter Leonardo da Vinci. Tourist attractions include the Castle of Vinci, Piazza dei Guidi square, the church of Santa Croce and the sanctuary of Santissima Annuziata. If you are in Vinci in July, do not miss the medieval fantasy festival called Festa dell’Unicorno.

4. Conio, San Donato in Poggio (Tavarnelle Val di Pesa)

Conio farm house enjoys an excellent location in San Donato Val di Pesa, halfway between Florence and San Geminiano. This beautiful Tuscan farm house offers accommodation including 5 private apartments and guest rooms only 0.3 mile from San Donato old town. Ideal for a family vacation in Tuscany, Conio farm home features a swimming pool and a small private lake. The farm house also produces its own wine and olive oil, and organizes cooking lessons for Italian food lovers.

Boasting a rich historic heritage, San Donato in Poggio is a lovely medieval village which is worth a visit. Sights of interest include the sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie e Pietracupa, the abbey of Pieve di San Donato in Poggio and the main Piazza Malaspina square with its Florentine architecture and original water well.

5.Casolare San Lorenzo, Montespertoli

Surrounded by a vast parkland with lakes, olive groves and vineyards, Casolare San Lorenzo is a splendid farm home in Montespertoli, Florence that enjoys fantastic views over the Chianti hills.

Built in traditional Tuscan style featuring wooden beams and terracotta bricks, this elegant farm house is the rural equivalent of a 4-star city hotel and offers a wide range of facilities: outdoor swimming pools, children’s swimming pool, soccer field, tennis court, tennis table, children’s games, laundry room, and private parking area. The 10 farm house apartments are named after the main protagonists of Tuscan Renaissance culture, from Michelangelo to Dante to Galileo and offers all you need to enjoy a relaxing stay in Tuscany. Located in the very heart of the Tuscan countryside, Casolare San Lorenzo estate also produces its own organic olive oil and wine.

• Be assertive

When you get onto the bike know the direction you need to go. Of course look both ways or one way (if it is a one way street), there could be a scooter coming out from your blind spot. Following the direction of traffic is a must. Note: if you are riding against traffic be extra careful where you ride. Slow down if you know the car will not make it around you. While riding look behind you twice before crossing the street to the other side. Drivers do not handle slowing down on small narrow streets lightly. Keep pedaling once you have chosen the direction you want to go in a busy piazza. Always keep your eyes forward on your target direction if you glance at the bus coming at you, that could be trouble.

• Riding on the sidewalk or the street?

You are able to ride on the sidewalk as much as you want but if you know Florence, there aren’t the biggest sidewalks in the world. In the center there is, but have you forgotten the crowds of tourists that will be marching down them?

The street is the better choice to get where you want to go fast. Riding with the flow of traffic can be an advantage because on some point will you going just as fast as a Smart car. On the sidewalk you have the potential of running down innocent people and well, getting yourself hurt along the way. Now the most horrifying thing is that you will be riding your bike alongside scooters, cars, and yes, LARGE buses. You must stay calm and be alert.

• Riding next to traffic

Calm and alert. The scariest part for me when I started riding alongside traffic that you could actually reach out, and touch the car next to you. Also the traffic speeds by you like you are invisible. It is not like in the States where the cars make a semi-circle around you. In Italy, you are literally part of traffic, not a Sunday afternoon rider in the park.

Once I caught myself behind a city bus on a street which he could not pass. I pedaled my heart out however still being honked at. This is normal, bus drivers seem to have a dislike for bicyclists, every time one is going a bit slow in front of a non-passable bus, they must honk to make themselves known. My advice is to keep moving, the bus will be stopping soon and then treat yourself to gelato for cheating death.

• Small narrow streets

Usually there aren’t many cars on such streets but if you are riding down Via Cavour or other streets leading into, for example, Piazza Liberta, Piazzale Donetello, or Piazza Beccaria, these are where the lines of traffic come into play. If you find yourself going down a one way street against traffic be aware that on one or both sides will have parking. There is no way this car or truck will be able to swerve around you. Stop your bike behind a car or come close to the sidewalk and smile. Be courteous, they are bigger than you. Now this isn’t Naples or Rome where drivers are said to be more aggressive than here, in Florence they won’t try to run you over.

• Once you get to the center…

Meeting a friend for a coffee, going to class or going to work, park your bike once you arrive in the center and walk to your destination. There is no need to ride through the chaos of picture takers, pointers at high towers, or large packs of fanny pack wearers. I usually find parking either in Piazza San Marco, Piazza Della Signoria or Piazza del Duomo. Most piazza’s or main streets like Via Cavour have bike parking along it. It saves you the struggle of parking outside the place you need to be where there is no parking.

Be aware, be assertive, and be aggressive when riding on Florentine streets. The first few times will be scary, so be patient with yourself. Then all of the sudden you will be a calm bike rider, where bike riding gets you to your destination faster and cheaper.

Good Luck!

Picture of old bike by Katie Greenaway

‘This hill takes a lot out of you.’ I thought walking briskly up the steep, main drag of Fiesole, Via Antonio Gramsci. This town is taken for granted sitting high above the valley that is Florence, Tuscany. You can see the grand bell tower from many different views throughout the city, although no one seems to know about it. Unless you take the sightseeing double decker bus, no one will venture to the tippy top of this grand and noble dwelling. Instead of the boring tour bus, hop on the #7 city bus and stride through the town of San Domenico, and up the winding strada (street),Via Angelico. Just as the street describes leading up to it, it is an Angel sitting amongst the stars. The #7 will drop you right in front of a newsstand and an Irish pub, J.J. Hill. As an ancient, mystical town welcomes you.

There are many trinkets to enjoy in this city above the valley. A neighborhood bakery sells freshly baked cookies, pastries, and pizzas everyday. A fruit stand has an array of delicious fresh from the garden fruits and vegetables. Many little shops selling baby clothes, swimsuits, and designer sunglasses along Via Antonio Gramsci have very friendly staff. Fiesole can be a great stroll for an afternoon of window shopping as well as a great workout.

If you arrive early enough in the day, I suggest a walk through the hills behind the main square. To travel to this secluded place, walk to the right of Piazza Mino that veers right even more when you pass the piazza. The street is called Via Guiseppe Verdi. Along this street you will have gorgeous views of Florence, as if you were a bird flying high. Follow this road, having views of Florence on your right and elegant houses lining your left, until you see an elementary school on your left with houses aligning the street heading down, then up into the hills. You are there when this tabernacle of the Virgin Mary appears at the entrance. It looks like this: Walk a bit through the forest up and up through carefully marked path, enjoy the solitude and beautiful sights of Tuscany at it’s finest.

After the brisk walk through the ancient Etruscan hills, come back the way you came and have a delicious lunch of pizza and pasta at Pizzeria Etrusca. Located closest to the Cathedral on the corner of Piazza Mino. There is a great outdoor café during the summer months and if it is a bit chilly the upstairs eatery is very cozy.

After a full lunch, why not venture to the Roman Forum and Theater right behind the pizzeria, enjoy the enchanting views of the neighboring villages from ancient ruins. From there I suggest making another trek up the hill of Via San Francesco for a great afternoon gaze of Florence. Up further, there is a quaint church called San Francesco with a monastery. Another jewel of this fantastic town. In the evening in Fiesole, there is a place you can’t miss. The cemetery of Fiesole is a spectacle in itself. The artificial lights on each grave lights up, more reason to go and sit in the silence of the flickering lights. It is located on Via del Cimiterio, right behind the Cathedral.

Fiesole is much cooler, quieter, and all around calmer than the busy city center of Florence. If this sounds like the perfect place for you I recommend the Hotel Villa Bonelli. I studied, lived there and have been staying with this staff for over 6 years now. I hope I have convinced you to partake in a ride on the #7 bus to a hidden secret.

Picture of Fiesole, Florence, courtesy of Hotel Villa Bonelli

I have attended a couple of Italian language schools in Florence in my attempt to drink in this language. I have researched the other schools very thoroughly so to give you a basic view of each one. I am looking for schools with a 2-hour class daily for a month. I think it is more useful and less overwhelming. I took a 4-hour class at CLIDA for a month and I feel it was an overload of Italian. I felt bombarded. Tiny baby steps, I felt that it was better for me. Accommodations can be included in the price of each course with each of these schools. You have the option of living with a family or renting an apartment in Florence with fellow students. I hope this helps my fellow Italophiles in finding a great Italian language school in Florence.

1. Centro Internationale Studenti Giorgio La Pira

Via de’ Pescioni 3 – Florence Palazzo Strozzi

I wanted to start out with the best language school I have ever attended. This was my school for 6 months this past year while I was an au pair. I felt I learned more grammar and vocabulary from my teachers. The teachers are very nice and helpful. You will feel comfortable and challenged everyday.

The great thing about this school is that the price is so worth it. For 2-hours a day, Monday to Thursday for a month is only 130 Euro. You will not find a cheaper month long class in Florence. These are educated teachers who care about helping you learn and want you to speak, to make mistakes. The classes are small and very diverse. It was great because I was able to meet people from all over the world as well.

2. Lorenzo de’ Medici

Via Faenza, 43 – Florence San Lorenzo

This school has campuses in Florence, Rome and Tuscania. It has many courses other than just language. The school caters to US universities giving college credit. I had a friend, Joan, who attended a month long course on art and said, “The school was great.”

I once visited the school with her and thought the school was very organized and full of energy. If you want a great experience in one of the many authentic, historical buildings then attend this prominent school.

As my theme previously stated, I am pushing the 2-hour a day class session instead of the 4-hour, however this school only has that option in the summers. For a month of 2-hour a day course in the summer is 300 Euro. During the normal school year, they have only 4-hour class session per month which is 580 Euro. Yes, the prices are quite expensive, but this is one the most famous schools in Florence. If you want the best, you must pay the price.

3. Scuola Leonardo da Vinci

Via Bufalini, 3 – Florence Santissima Annunziata

Everyday so far we come home saying how much we love our school, the staff, teachers, and the people we’re meeting there. We’re really having a wonderful and productive time. There are 2 main classes we attend each morning – grammar and conversation. Each instructor is so animated and patient so even while they’re teaching Italian in Italian, it works.

This is a quote from my friend Erin, who is currently attending this school with her husband.

This school has campuses in Milan, Rome, and Siena as well as Florence. The standard course is again, 4-hours a day and for a month it costs 300 Euro. This school also gives college credit a chosen few of US universities. Class size is minimum of 12 students of all different nationalities. Which is plus so you are not forced to digress and use your native tongue. The levels of each course are as follows; Beginner, Elementary, Intermediate, Advanced, Proficient, and Diploma. I feel this is a school for students who put their heart and soul into learning this beautiful language.

4. ABC Centro Di Lingua & Cultura Italiana

Via de’ Rustici, 7 – Florence Uffizi

I looked into attending this school and really liked it. The classes consist of just 7 to 10 students, unlike the other schools. The courses are divided into six levels and two programs: Formation Program and Specialization Program. The Formation program is divided into three levels elementary, middle, and superior. At the conclusion of the program students are able to express themselves correctly in Italian, written and spoken forms. The Specialization Programs is also divided into three levels, Advanced 1, Advanced 2, and Advanced 3. The students at the end of this process will have a confident feel of the language to express themselves both in written and spoken forms. The cost of this language experience for 4-hours a day per month would be 600 Euro.

5. Centro Linguistico Italian Dante Alighieri

Piazza della Repubblica, 5 – Florence Duomo

I went to this school for a month in 2005. It was my first encounter with the Italian language schools and how they work. I took the 4-hour class for a month. It was the basic learning style, grammar for 2-hours in the morning and conversation and vocabulary the last 2-hours. The teacher I had was very sweet but I felt I lacked a bit in confidence in speaking her class. My fellow students begged to differ. But overall I enjoyed the people, the structure, and the school. I knew if I were to attend another school, it couldn’t be a pressing 4-hour a day class.

The standard group course per month for 4-hours a day is 400 Euro. You have the option of attending for just two weeks instead of the whole 4 weeks. This school is located right in the center of Florence, in Piazza della Repubblica, and housed in a 19th-century building facing the famous piazza.

I have not kept to my idea of recommending 2-hour a day classes, but all these schools have exceptional programs by their own standards that can benefit all different learning curves.

Photo of library in Florence originally posted by limbte