Like so many modern cities, the outskirts of Lisbon are succumbing to ubiquitous design coupled with convenient but stark implementation.
The Parque das Nacoes is a fine example of this, although the Aquarium there is excellent. The centre of the city is different however, and the very best is reserved for the Bairro Alto.
It must be said that the appeal of the Bairro Alto lies more in its charm than in any glitz or glamour. A survey comparing the area with 5th Avenue in New York or the Champs Elysees in Paris was met with incredulity by some media outlets as people thought that to be in the same league an area would need the same shallow draws which the Bairro Alto does not. Those mocking journalists had clearly never been to the area.
The Bairro Alto can seem schizophrenic as its character totally changes at dusk. During the day peace reigns, locals wander through the quiet streets and the occasional café is all one needs for refreshment. In the evening, however, the entire place changes. Bars and clubs spill out onto the street, world class restaurants with world class service stay open late into the night and strains of Fado drift through the warm air.
In 1998 a spectacular and destructive fire ravaged the Bairro Alto but thankfully for visitors it was rebuilt and lovingly restored. The tangled alleyways and jumble of buildings has a timeless feel to it during the day but at night is much more contemporary. The area is home to a collection of bars dedicated to diverse modern tastes, gay bars and funk clubs rub shoulders with heavy metal and hip hop.
The Bairro Alto is not without its problems. As with many areas of the city visitors are frequently offered soft drugs by dealers on the streets. The local police seem powerless to do anything about them. Graffiti covers many of the walls, in some places it adds character but in most it is just senseless defacement. In the past the area has also been a centre for prostitution but for the most part this moved to other areas after the fire and didn’t return. Street crime such as robbery is mercifully rare, although pickpockets are known to operate in the area.
Many visitors based in other parts of Lisbon head to the Bairro Alto in the evening to take advantage of the bars and restaurants but it would be a shame to miss it during the day. There is a terrace with spectacular views that take in the city as it sinks down to meet the river and the funicular is always fun, especially for kids. The greatest attraction, however, is simply wandering around and relaxing in the ambience of a more peaceful time.
Where to stay in Bairro Alto, Lisbon
Picture of graffiti in the Bairro Alto, Lisbon, Portugal, by Ramon Peco
Topic: General Travel |
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Tags: Lisbon, nightlife
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