Whoever visits Tuscany, Italy is struck most of all by its landscapes: passion and tradition are evident in the way the land is worked, the tidy farmhouses surrounded by green meadows, and hillsides covered with olive trees and vineyards.
But the landscape changes, and gets even more suggestive, when you reach Siena: the earth has a brownish, dark orange hue, and the change in color is more evident at sunset or sunrise, when the sun casts its light on the land. You have entered the famous Crete senesi, a lunar landscape created by the peculiar composition of the clay, which was brought here by the sea that covered the area about 3 million years ago.
I usually suggest to visit Tuscany by car, in order to appreciate the countryside and have enough time to enjoy the scents and flavors of the area. This is especially true if you are going to Siena: before visiting one of the most fascinating cities in Italy, maybe the one that is best steeped in history, I recommend a gastronomic tour of the Crete, the area that goes from Siena to Asciano (you can also travel by Natura train, a steam-powered train that explores Siena countryside in a very relaxing way). You can find many farm houses that have the benefit of a stunning panoramic position, and enjoy sharing the Tuscan gastronomic tradition with their guests.
Food in Siena is rustic in character but at the same time refined; the cuisine tends to be simple, but it uses all the fragrances that nature can offer.
You might start with a bruschetta, slices of toasted Tuscan bread with garlic and olive oil, and accompany it with the famous Pecorino of Pienza, a scented cheese that has the taste of all the herbs that sheep eat during the year. All through the summer, there is nothing better than eating panzanella, and if you have never tasted it you don’t know what you have missed! Let me explain how simple and appetizing this dish is: some dried bread soaked in water and seasoned with red onions, ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, basil, olive oil and vinegar. This recipe has humble origins because it was created by farmers who wanted to use their stale bread and all the summer vegetables they could find in their garden.
Needless to say, Siena is the area of fantastic wines such as Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Therefore, after some days in the Tuscan countryside, you are ready to plunge into the medieval charm of Siena. The ideal time to be there is in July and August, when the 17 contrade (quarters of the city) fight for a painted banner in the famous Palio di Siena, a horse race that takes place in one of the most magnificent Italian squares, Piazza del Campo. However, the exciting atmosphere of the Palio is not limited to the dates of the race (2nd July and 16th August), but it pervades the lives of the people who gather, parade, shed tears and rejoice for their contrada during the rest of the year (I will tell you more about the Palio in a next article).
You can experience the culinary riches of Siena in the numerous restaurants you find in town, but don’t forget to go in bar o caffè, because there you can taste two of the gastronomic glories of Siena: ricciarelli (delicate sugar-almond pastries) and panforte (a fruitcake that dates back to the thirteenth century, made of candied fruits, walnuts, almonds, orange peel, cinnamon and other spices).
Photos of Siena countryside originally posted by peuplier
Topic: Restaurants & Food |
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Tags: Tuscany, wine
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About the author
Born in Tuscany, in a small village among Perugia, Florence and Siena, Elena Bonelli is a lecturer of English Language at the Universities of Siena and Perugia. She also teaches in a Master for experts in Tourist and Gastronomic Communication.
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