The Hills of Budapest, Hungary

Like many people, when I visit a new city I like to eschew the offer of public transport and take to my feet.

The bus or metro systems may be quicker and easier but they mean that you miss so much of a place that it is difficult to get any impression at all except of the inside of tunnels or the back of the head of the person in front of you. However, this policy of mine has led to problems, usually because I get lost or wander into bad neighbourhoods. But in Budapest I found a new problem, hills.

Of course I have encountered hills before, large ones too. Some people call them mountains. But it was a long day and I had explored all of Pest before beginning on Buda, but I forced myself to continue and I’m exceedingly glad that I did.

Castle Hill

I should probably first explain that while Pest, the eastern half of the city of Budapest, is almost entirely flat, Buda, the western half on the opposite side of the Danube, contains two large hills. Castle Hill is the lower of the two and contains the old town streets and as well as the former Royal Palace. As you approach it Castle Hill looks like something out of a fairy tale, the castle soars upwards layer after layer and tower and tower. Cable cars can whisk you to the top (or bring you down) but I maintained my dedication to walking. After tramping up winding streets and steep stairs I eventually emerged at the top, breathless but triumphant.

It was slightly disappointing to realise that most of the people around me at the top had been driven up in their air-conditioned coaches but that didn’t detract from the experience. The view across the city of Budapest was stunning, the palace magical and the breeze cooling. I explored for a while but soon I had to be on.

Gellert Hill

Gellert Hill is adjacent to Castle Hill on the banks of the Danube. I had a bit of a shock when I saw just how big it is because by that point I was really starting to flag. The hill was tall, steep and covered in trees which I presumed would make it more difficult to climb.

Thankfully Gellert hill turned out not to be that difficult to climb since there is a well maintained network or paths and steps up its wooded slopes. There is also a pleasant waterfall gushing down on its rocky way and a memorial to St Gellert who was apparently flung off this hill to his death. Once I reached the top I found a hope inspiring monument to peace in the form of a statue holding a palm branch aloft. There was also a fort with a museum but this seemed overly expensive.

After a brief rest sitting on a convenient bench I was off again, back down the hill over the river and back to mercifully flat Pest. However, I would heartily recommend visitors climbing both hills on their visit to Budapest, the views are awesome and the exercise useful, even enjoyable. I would suggest, however, that visitors either stretch the climbs out over two days, or else do them in the morning and plan a hearty lunch.

Top 5 Budapest Hotels on Castle Hill:

• Buda Castle Hotel – Double Room from  €149 per night
• Burg Hotel – Double Room from €115 per night
• Hotel St George Residence – Double Room from €98 per night
• Hotel Castle Garden – Double Room from €99 per night
• Carlton Hotel Budapest – Double Room from €95 per night

View of Pest from Buda Hill, Budapest, Hungary by Dirac3000

Topic:  General Travel | 1 Comment
Tags:  Budapest

About the author

Will Joce is a recent graduate from the London School of Economics who has a morbid fear of working in an office. As well as travelling and writing he has worked in the UK Parliament and as a press monitor. Refusing to follow advice and get a real job he will soon be beginning a Masters degree at St Petersburg State University