A mere few years ago, the area surrounding Kottbusser Tor in Berlin had the reputation of being a hotbed for heroin use and prostitution and served as one of the city’s many punk paradises.
I stayed in a hostel by Gorlitzer Bahnhof in spring of 2004, had 200 euros stolen from me and was advised not to walk the streets alone after dark. Upon my arrival back to the area this year I was astounded by the incredible changes all around me. I unknowingly happened upon my old hostel and found the neighborhood unrecognizable. The streets that only a few years before had boasted just a few couple punk shops and bars were now lined with independent music and clothing stores, chic eateries and perhaps most notably a huge variety of pubs and lounges. This area is great if you happen to be out with a mixed group of people. Gay or straight, rich or poor, the bars lining Oranienstraße and the surrounding area have a queer-friendly vibe and independent edge, but are surprisingly open to all. Pick any night of the week and check out my walking (or stumbling) tour of the best bars in East Kreuzberg.
Möbel Olfe
This popular pub is essentially a traditional German tavern that a bunch of art kids and party animals have rampantly converted into a lavishly decorated space for hanging out with good friends. The music is generally a simple and enjoyable mix of old favorites and new indie pop. The mantra posted above the bar “no tip, no drink” should be followed as this pub is often so packed it can be tough to get service and the cheap drink prices generally allow for generous gratuities. Thursday is a popular gay night so expect the women’s bathroom line to be short or non-existent. This night is generally pretty booze soaked, so look forward to at least one conversation with a complete stranger and perhaps an unwarranted groping or two: the free-for-all nature of this homey pub means anything goes.
Reichenberger Straße 177
Roses
This true gem sits right in the heart of Oranienstraße and is a classic gay hangout. There is no denying the distinctiveness of Roses as it’s apparent the second you step into the bar. The fuzzy neon pink fun-fur walls, disco balls, fake flowers, lights and mirrors galore make this tiny bar a must-see. You’ll likely be surrounded by a few middle aged regulars cruising but this bar draws everyone from New York artists and art dealer’s children, to drunken English lesbians dying to get laid. The true gem of Roses, however, is Rose herself. The loving owner and proprietor, often the place’s only bartender, plays the role of den mother. Beware: this woman is horribly sarcastic and will mess with you. She will also melt your cold heart with her kindness before serving you the biggest tumblers of whiskey you have ever set eyes on.
Oranienstraße 187
Paloma Bar
This hard to find lounge sits right above the Kaiser’s at Kottbusser Tor. Take the stairs and step through a nondescript velvet curtain to this tiny drinking palace overlooking the U1. The atmosphere boasts the typical “Berlin living room” aesthetic with cute wallpapering, chandeliers and kitschy nautical framed artwork. A number of well-known Berlin DJs are residents here (you could call this their “day job”) and you must pay one Euro to the DJ at the bar with your first round. This is money well spent, the DJ is usually spinning vintage Vinyl and the music is top notch. They serve a variety of standard cocktails and beers, but nobody comes here for the drinks: the pleasure of Paloma bar comes from sitting next to the wall of windows overlooking one of Berlin’s major hubs pulsating with energy and magic.
Skalitzer Straße 135
Monarch
If Paloma Bar is too crowded and you can’t find a seat, go next door to Monarch, a bar that is a funny mix of half tavern, half disco. The one Euro cover charge applies here as well, but Monarch is a touch less refined than Paloma Bar. Think drinking buddies verses a quiet evening out with your significant other. That said, if you’re looking for a good place to get smashed for cheap and not be bored, Monarch is it. There is foosball and a dance floor, but the true entertainment might be watching a bunch of intoxicated straight guys hit on anything that moves. Don’t get me wrong, in a city where more often than not you inevitably wind up at a gay bar, it’s nice to attend a different kind of sausage party once and a while. Ladies will enjoy not paying for their drinks and their gay friends can enjoy a couple hours of being left alone to mingle with their friends.
Skalitzer Strasse 134
Barbie Deinhoff’s
End your night at Barbie’s. A little down the street close to Schlesische Tor, this bar run by celebrity drag queen Lena Braun appeals to the ultra-fabulous and normale folk alike. This bar has nightly events of all varieties, ranging from 80s New Wave and No Wave parties to 70s glam trash and 90s pop. On Mondays, get a cheap haircut from Persona Non Grata, aka Daido, a sweet man from Belgium making a big name for himself in Berlin. This place loves glamour and when attending its wild drag parties it is up to you to participate or watch; both options will bring copious entertainment and liberation.
Schlesische Strasse 16
Good Luck Surviving!
Photo of beer and camera in Kreuzber, Berlin, Germany by LeRamz
Topic: Tips and Ideas |
0 Comments
Tags: Berlin, gay travel, nightlife
About the author
Edna Hund is a freelance writer and photographer from New York City. She enjoys sitting in parks and watching the days go by in her new home of Berlin.
Leave a comment