How to Eat Cheap in Berlin? Lesson 4: Currywurst

It’s been eulogized by Herbert Grönemeyer, it’s a favorite amongst locals, young and old alike, and, allegedly, it’s an invention of one of the great citizens of this great city, Berlin.

It’s Currywurst! It’s that wonderful dish, that fills you up, drenched in curry ketchup and good for bringing you back up, why it’s Currywurst! Forgive the Grönemeyer inspired nonsense…

So you’re in Berlin and you know that there was a wall or something that made this city into two cities, belonging to two nations; and that some people on one side of the wall had little and others were supported by the rest of the German Federal Republic tax revenue. But, did you know that this had serious consequences for the Berliner Currywurst? Did it ever occur to you that there is no such thing as THE Berliner Currywurst, but in fact, two? Well prepare to have your mind blown! In David Bowie’s glammed-out West Berlin, Currywurst was traditionally fried with the still skin on (good for that extra crispiness, thank you tax Marks), while in dignified, socialist, worker’s East Berlin, Currywurst was traditionally boiled without the skin (one wonders what they did with the skins…). Nevertheless, both sides of the “anti-fascist protection wall’ enjoyed and still enjoy their Currywurst with a heaping helping of Pommes (French fries) or, for the more conservative, bread rolls.

The following should help you find the best of the best of this, ahem, local, dish.

Westside

•  Curry 36

Mehringdamm 36, 10961 Berlin (Kreuzberg)

Curry 36 Is the ultimate Currywurstbude and is always busy, no matter what time of day you show up. But not to worry, there’s never more than a short wait for this delicious, fresh made treat. Personally, I think their fries are the best amongst the lot…

• Currywurst Berlin & Friends

Bundesallee 200, 10717 Berlin (Wilmersdorf)

If you’re looking for an Imbiss with a bit of history, this is the place to go. Everyone from Wim Wenders, Bruno Ganz and Mr. Schmidt have all eaten here.

• Fritz & Co.

Bayreutherstrasse (Schöneberg)

Is another fine Bude, but this time with all organic ingredients. Currywurst for the ecologically conscience.

Eastside

• Konnopke’s

Schönhauseralle 44a (under the U-Bahn stop Eberswaldestrasse in Prenzlauerberg)

In my mind, this is the only place to eat Currywurst in the East, if not the whole city. Opening in 1930, Konnopke’s is the oldest Currywurst joint in the city, and has a great old time-y charm, underneath the train tracks in ultra hip Prenzlauerberg. Frau Ziervogel, the heir to the Konnopke’s empire, still works every day, despite being well advanced in age. Enjoy the “Menü, weiss und rot” (one currywurst, a helping of fries topped with mayo and ketchup) and wash it down with a Berliner beer. Fantastic!

Somewhere in the middle

Fittingly, the train station Kiosk at Friedrichstrasse, a former checkpoint between the two cities, offers both versions, and has all the fixings you could need. Their ketchup sauce is also particularly lovely.

Topic:  How to Tuesday | 2 Comments
Tags:  Berlin, budget, food

About the author

Shane Anderson left his native California three years ago and has been living in Berlin ever since. He is a freelance writer and journalist.