It’s Currywurst! It’s that wonderful dish, that fills you up, drenched in curry ketchup and good for bringing you back up, why it’s Currywurst! Forgive the Grönemeyer inspired nonsense…

So you’re in Berlin and you know that there was a wall or something that made this city into two cities, belonging to two nations; and that some people on one side of the wall had little and others were supported by the rest of the German Federal Republic tax revenue. But, did you know that this had serious consequences for the Berliner Currywurst? Did it ever occur to you that there is no such thing as THE Berliner Currywurst, but in fact, two? Well prepare to have your mind blown! In David Bowie’s glammed-out West Berlin, Currywurst was traditionally fried with the still skin on (good for that extra crispiness, thank you tax Marks), while in dignified, socialist, worker’s East Berlin, Currywurst was traditionally boiled without the skin (one wonders what they did with the skins…). Nevertheless, both sides of the “anti-fascist protection wall’ enjoyed and still enjoy their Currywurst with a heaping helping of Pommes (French fries) or, for the more conservative, bread rolls.

The following should help you find the best of the best of this, ahem, local, dish.

Westside

•  Curry 36

Mehringdamm 36, 10961 Berlin (Kreuzberg)

Curry 36 Is the ultimate Currywurstbude and is always busy, no matter what time of day you show up. But not to worry, there’s never more than a short wait for this delicious, fresh made treat. Personally, I think their fries are the best amongst the lot…

• Currywurst Berlin & Friends

Bundesallee 200, 10717 Berlin (Wilmersdorf)

If you’re looking for an Imbiss with a bit of history, this is the place to go. Everyone from Wim Wenders, Bruno Ganz and Mr. Schmidt have all eaten here.

• Fritz & Co.

Bayreutherstrasse (Schöneberg)

Is another fine Bude, but this time with all organic ingredients. Currywurst for the ecologically conscience.

Eastside

• Konnopke’s

Schönhauseralle 44a (under the U-Bahn stop Eberswaldestrasse in Prenzlauerberg)

In my mind, this is the only place to eat Currywurst in the East, if not the whole city. Opening in 1930, Konnopke’s is the oldest Currywurst joint in the city, and has a great old time-y charm, underneath the train tracks in ultra hip Prenzlauerberg. Frau Ziervogel, the heir to the Konnopke’s empire, still works every day, despite being well advanced in age. Enjoy the “Menü, weiss und rot” (one currywurst, a helping of fries topped with mayo and ketchup) and wash it down with a Berliner beer. Fantastic!

Somewhere in the middle

Fittingly, the train station Kiosk at Friedrichstrasse, a former checkpoint between the two cities, offers both versions, and has all the fixings you could need. Their ketchup sauce is also particularly lovely.

Where do you go? Well, for starters, DON’T go to Mexikoplatz (Mexico Square) in the West; for all your fantasies of mariachi bands and waterfalls of salsa, all you’re bound to find are wet rags they pass as tortillas, drenched in ketchup. If you’re looking for real Mexican food (like refried beans loaded with lard, topped with cheddar cheese and sour cream, and, naturally, a helping portion of guacamole), then this list should help you.

• Dolores

Dolores is a lovely California style burrito eatery (read for: healthy burritos with black beans sans lard) that feels like it could only belong in Berlin (the color scheme and emphasis on design says it all), though, don’t be fooled, the owners are more than familiar with San Francisco; hence the name, a street in San Francisco’s famed Mission District. But again, you’re in Berlin, and this will be clear to you as soon as you take a look at the magazine rack filled with design, art and fashion magazines waiting for you while you wait for the tasty treats to come. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Dolores has recently updated its menu, adding to the regular fare dishes like a tofu mole, salsas like smoky peanut and the plainly mysterious sounding salsa roja -but don’t worry, all the standards are here as well, including the winning combo of black beans and lime rice. I’m a fan of the quesedillas, the adobo beef and carnitas burritos, all with a large helping of guacamole and washing it down with a lemonade.

Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 7

10178 Berlin (Mitte)

www.dolores-online.de

• Viva Mexico

Located on the past border between East and West Berlin, Viva Mexico is a very respectable eatery where, sadly, almost no one goes. Of course, this noticeable lack of patronage is most likely caused by it’s strange location far from any possible foot traffic, but when I eat there, I tend to think it’s because it’s located directly on the border of a border town that’s been raided so many times by la migra that no one is willing to risk their neck there. In any case, Viva Mexico has very good enchiladas, stand-up burritos and surprisingly, the hot sauce is hot, really, really hot. The place is authentic enough to make this Californian native homesick. Go on Tuesday, and score yourself a 3,50 Euro cocktail.

Chausseestr. 36

10115 Berlin (Mitte)

• Aztec

Boldly naming your restaurant Aztec and evoking a rich tradition, you better make sure the food is good, and surprisingly it is -even if the decor reminds me of Mexican restaurants in old folks communities in Arizona and New Mexico… In any case, the food is good, really good, even if it can be a bit expensive. Try a taco plate or the fajitas. Treat yourself.

Bayerischer Platz 4, 10

10779 Berlin (Schöneberg)

http://www.aztek-berlin.de/

Photo of Dolores burritos restaurant, Berlin by Moe_

1. Casolare

Casolare and its other restaurants Pizzeria I Due Forni and Il Ritrovo-Cucina Casalinga are real Italian eateries with amazing pizzas made by anarchist Italians with real Berliner attitude. My friends and I often joke that we frequent Casolare or Pizzeria I Due Forni so that we can complain about the service as much as enjoy the best pizza in town. The table red wine goes well with just about any pizza you might try (though I recommend the rucola pizza, the smoked horse meet pizza or the prosciutto e funghi, all with a not too generous helping of the spicy oil you can ask your waiter for), and the specials of the day also come highly recommended. Casolare and its sisters are run as a co-op, where each tattooed and pierced Italian that doesn’t speak German earns as much as any other tattooed and pierced Italian that doesn’t speak German. It’s well worth the experience and, may I suggest, you bring a thick black pen to write your name on the wall as you sip on some grappa (or indulge in some Tiramisu and espresso). Too punk for you? Then marvel at all the tags from bands that you thought died a painful punk pop death sometime in the early nineties. That’s right, even Pennywise has been here.

Casolare Trattoria: Grimmstr. 30 (Kreuzberg)

Pizzeria I Due Forni: Schoenhauser Allee 12 (Prenzlauerberg)

Il Ritrovo-Cucina Casalinga: Gabriel-Max-Strasse 2, Wühlischstrasse 29 (Friedrichshain)

2. La Focacceria

Just around the corner from Kastanienallee, on Fehrbellinerstrasse, there’s my favorite little hole in the wall focaccia stand. They offer a number of focaccias with great toppings (I’m particularly fond of the eggplant focaccia and their zucchini focaccia) at amazingly decent prices considering the location. For some, however, focaccia might be too much bread, so I suggest you try their absolutely wonderful lasagna; it’s creamy, cheesy and savory –everything a good lasagna should be. The dishes is wonderful, the salads are excellent but the wine is, sadly, lacking. Fear not, for just around the corner there are two famous Berliner institutions: the Weinereien.

Fehrbelliner Straße 24 (Mitte / Prenzlauerberg)

The Weinerei, a concept we’ll explain in another episode, is located at Veteranenstrasse 14

3. Ron Telesky

Canadian Pizza? What, pray tell, is that? Is there the ubiquitous Canadian gravy oozing out? Are there pizzas named hoser? There might as well be. Nevertheless, these original creations are as tasty as they are fun novelties items. Try the Cronenberg Crash (cilantro pesto, mozzarella, tandoori tofu, cheddar, tomatoes, red peppers, mango) if you’re feeling brave -it’s actually really good- or if you prefer, stick to some of the regulars, you’ll find there as well. Still hungry? Try one of their dessert pizzas. Seriously.

Dieffenbachstrasse 62 (Kreuzberg)

http://www.myspace.com/rontelesky

4. Dolce Pizza

Dolce Pizza serves up the best slices -on foccaccia- in this part of town. I’m particularly keen on the slices with olives, but, as with any place that’s this busy, sometimes it’s hard to know if your favorites are going to be there when you arrive. Regardless, the pizza pies are delicious here and no matter what you try, you’re bound to leave satisfied.

Maassenstrasse 6 (Schöneberg)

5. Pappa e Ciccia

To tell you the truth, I’m breaking my own rules to this guide on this one. While the rest of the list provided will get you filled up and ready to go in just a couple of minutes, Pappa e Ciccia (‘food and fat,’ a phrase I’m told is not exactly polite in Italian), will allow you to ease into a fine, more upscale meal with fresh handmade pastas, delicious salads and premium Italian wines. I particularly like the big, family style tables and the flowers, all creating a rather chic yet homey feel. Warning, it’s becoming more popular on the weekends, so if you have your heart set on this all around lovely dining experience, then make a reservation (something almost unheard of in most of Berlin).

Schwedterstrasse 18 (Prenzlauerberg / Mitte)

Happy eating!

While you could certainly leave a few books at the hotel for other travelers to peruse, why not make a couple of Euros off them at a used book store? Here are some suggestions to both buy and sell English books in Berlin.

1. St. George’s

St. George’s is close to Heaven on Earth. Seriously, if anyone were to ask me my top 10 favorite bookstores in the world, St. George’s would figure in there somewhere, matching up even with obvious classics like Powell’s in Portland, Oregon, USA. Compact yet bursting from the seams with a great selection of new and used books that are all reasonably priced, St. George’s is THE English bookstore in Berlin. They carry a wide variety of fiction and nonfiction titles, including your up to the date recommended titles from the Guardian or the New York Times as well as unknown, overlooked classics that have been culled together by Paul (owner) and Jonathan (resident grumpy book sleuth). Tell them what you’re into and they’re bound to clue you in on 50 other things you might also want to read. Another bonus is their great selection of books about Berlin with classics like Berlin Alexanderplatz and other rarities. St. George’s also buys books, so, again, bring those paperbacks you’ve been hauling around on your travels and trade them in.

Also worth noting is St. George’s Tuesday night movie program, where they show art house classics and obscure international gems (with English subtitles), all for 2 Euros and a complimentary beer or glass of wine.

Wörtherstrasse 27 (Prenzlauerberg)

M – Fr: 11 am -8 pm

Sa: 11 am -7 pm

2. Another Country

To be honest, Another Country is nowhere near Heaven on Earth. Pretentious, disorganized, stuffy and outdated, Another Country’s selection is wanting, if not despicably pathetic. It’s worth mentioning, however, not only for its location in the heart of Kreuzberg 61 but also for its wide selection of detective novels and science fiction. Seriously, if you want to pick up a copy of everything L. Ron Hubbard ever published, then this is the place for you (just don’t come looking here for any poetry/fiction/social sciences/philosophy/history from the last 50 years). Check out their web page and join their newsletter, in case you want to go to one of their events, which are quaint and amusing.

Riemannstrasse 7 (Kreuzberg)

3. Pro Qm

Pro Qm is another amazing bookstore in Berlin and probably the coolest. Though daunting in its laissez-faire organization, Pro Qm focuses on cities, city planning, art, theory, architecture, feminism, queer theory, fashion, pop and culture. They offer a great selection of magazines and books from small publishing houses, artist catalogues and monographs as well as up to the minute art books. Even if these topics don’t interest you, a visit is recommended nonetheless for their selection of books about Berliner graffiti and the Berlin of today and yesterday. While other places will give you a view of history concerning the city, Pro Qm can show you Berlin as Berliners (and new Berliners) see the city.

Almstadtstrasse 48-50 (Mitte)

M – Sa: 11 am – 8 pm

4. Dussmann’s

Dussmann’s is a must for book lovers, music fans, film freaks and those of you who can read German. Although it’s mildly reminiscent of American chains like Borders, Dussmann’s has a wonderful selection of travel books, books about Berlin, and just about everything else on five floors. They have a wonderful philosophy and sociology selection as well as all the recent hits from the English (and, to some extent, French and Spanish) market(s). Dussmann’s DVD selection is nothing to frown at and neither is their music selection, though, admittedly, their classical and jazz selection is far superior to their pop and electronica selection. If you have children, the kids corner on the second floor should prevent a rainy from turning into a disaster. Also, if you want to learn German (or any other language for that matter), this should be your first stop.

Friedrichstrasse 90 (Mitte)

M – Sa: 10 am – 12 am

5. Do You Read Me?

Sick of reading? Isn’t that why you came on vacation anyway? To get away from the stress of university or your mind numbing job? Just want something to flip through? To ogle at? Something that will make you scratch your chin but not strain your eyes? Then stop by, Do you read me? for their wonderful selection of fashion, art and cultural magazines in a beautiful, austere setting. A stop here should make any train ride or airport visit pleasant; or as pleasant as it can be.

Auguststrasse 28 (Mitte)

M – F: 10 am – 8.30 pm

Sa: 10 am – 7.30 pm

Photo of books in Berlin, Germany, originally posted by Jacob Botter

Adventskalender, Weihnachtsmarkt, and the Tannenbaum all count as important staples in the German Christmas celebrating season. And, should you find yourself in this cold, dark, kitsch-ridden country during the holiday season, don’t despair; there are a number of wonderful Weihnachtsmärkte that will keep your eyes busy, your ears laughing and your belly glowing with Glühwein as you mingle with the natives and spill Senf all over your nice new coat.

Here’s a short list of the best Christmas markets in Berlin.

1. Weihnachtszauber Gendarmenmarkt

Like all Christmas markets, the Weihnachtszaubermarkt (the Christmas magic market) on the beautiful Gendarmenmarkt is filled with the usual children’s rides, food and sweets stalls, and crafts ranging from the very tasteful to the oh-so-tacky. I like this market not merely because of its central location (it’s very close to Unter den Linden and is flanked by the lovely the German church and the French church as well as the austere Konzerthaus), but also because of its delightful, care free feel. This isn’t a market that demands much time but as such I’ve found myself browsing these stalls much longer than at other markets. If you’re still feeling the Christmas spirit but you’re done with this market, go to the nearby Schlossplatzmarkt and take a ride on the giant Ferris Wheel. It’s cold up there, but it sure is pretty.

Gendarmentmarkt (Mitte)
Nov. 24 – Dec. 31 2008

2. Spandauer Altstadt

An absolute classic market and anyone looking for the ‘real deal’ should opt for Spandau, even if it is a bit out of the way. This market is rather sprawling (there are 150 stands during the week and over 450 on the weekends), and with a variety of goods and musical stages, this market is well worth the thirty minute S-Bahn or U-Bahn ride. Go on the weekend and watch the local police department stomp out German Christmas hits mixed in with, yes, full brass covers of ‘I had the Time of My Life’ and David Hasselhoff. Prepare to have your mind blown.

Marktplatz Spandau (this can be arrived at from the U7 or S9)
Nov. 26 – Dec. 23 2008

3. Winterwelt am Potsdamerplatz

The Christmas market at Potsdamerplatz is particularly nice for families with teens or those looking for a quick thrill. That’s right, even though there are no real mountains for hundreds of miles, every Christmas a little piece of Austria is brought to Berlin in the form of a toboggan run and traditional Austrian dishes (and beer) at this Christmas market. It’s particularly fitted out for teenagers with the nearby Sony Center and the Arcaden (a good sized mall) with all your modern shopping needs.

Potsdamerplatz
Nov 24 – Dec 28 2008

4. Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt

This market is a modest simple Weihnachtsmarkt, aimed more at younger children –or, perhaps it just feels that way since its located in Prenzlauerberg (one of the heaviest baby and toddler populated districts in Europe). I’ve had many a fine candied apple at this market and have fond memories of the Glühwein (lit: glowing wine, but don’t worry, nothing radioactive here, just some mulled wine with a shot of Amaretto). Highly recommended for a quick stop when you’re checking out the streets of Prenzlauerberg.

In the Kulturbrauerei
Sredzkistrasse 1
10435 Berlin (Prenzlauerberg)

Happy Holidays!

Photo of Weihnachtsmarkt concert in Berlin, Germany, by Shane Anderson

With a Dönerladen (Kebab shop) on just about every corner, the problem is knowing how to separate the hand made delights from the prefabricated frozen nuggets. This guide to the best falafel stands in Berlin should aid you.

1. Babel

Located conveniently on Kastanienallee between boutiques, designers, and more boutiques, Babel is the perfect place to take a break from all your shopping and engorge yourself with a delicious, fresh falafel Teller (plate). The vegetables are always fresh, the mango sauce is delightful and the pickled turnips are scrumptuous. Without a doubt, these lightly cinnamon and nutmeg spiced falafels are the best in town.

Babel – Kastanienallee 33 (Prenzlauerberg).

2. Nil

History lesson: falafel originates from Sudan (as do the Pyramids, don’t let those Egyptians fool you). In Sudan, falafel is called tamiya. If you would like to be served promptly at either this location or the Wrangelkiez joint on Oppelnerstrasse, make sure to call your sandwich by the right name or be prepared to wait for a long time (trust me). Don’t forget to request extra peanut sauce -it’s delicious if not addictive. Not in the mood for falafel? Their Nil Chicken with eggplant also comes highly recommended.

Nil – Grünbergerstrasse 52 (Friedrichshain).

3. Maroush

Not only is Maroush the best falafel in the über-punk Kottbussertor environs, it is also the most aesthetically pleasing in the whole city. Come for the falafel, stay for the cozy nooks and delicious peppermint tea.

Maroush. Adalbertstrasse 93 (Kreuzberg).

4. Dada Falafel

Don’t worry: despite this Falafel stand borrowing an avant-garde movement for its name, this place serves standard quality falafels, for a standard fair price. Located near the gallery row on Auguststrasse, you’ll find this place fitting before or after the long art haul.

Dada Falafel – Linienstrasse 132 (Mitte)

5. Al Andalos

Though there are a number of good falafel stands not far from Hermannplatz, Al Andalos won over my heart. Not only is it the cheapest falafel in Berlin (1 Euro! Can you believe it?) but the decor is amazingly tacky. For all the money you’re saving on the falafel, make sure to pick up one of the cassettes lying on the bar -a real treat.

Al Andalos – Sonnenallee 40 (Neukölln).

Happy eating!

Picture of falafel at Babel, Berlin originally posted by dizznbonn

Here is a short list of must-see clubs and locations that will help you keep your New Years resolution of losing weight, even before the New Year begins. Should your resolution be to slow down a little, to spend a little more time at home, then why not indulge in a bit of fun before the constrictions of all the promises you’re bound to break anyway?

1. Berghain / Panorama Bar

Located inside an old power plant near Ostbahnhof, Berghain is named after two districts in Berlin (KreuzBERG and FriedrichsHAIN) and is the club in Berlin, if not the world. Berghain is a place where gays, non-gays, straight edge and drug-eyed hedonists can all mix together to the thump of Techno and that Berliner specialty, Minimal Techno. Techno not your thing? Upstairs the Panorama Bar, a smaller club within this behemoth pleasure factory, is more House friendly, though not necessarily house trained –the provocative photos by Germany’s famous Wolfgang Tillman should be your first indication. Don’t be put off by the industrial landscape surroundings or anything else inside this club; seriously, if you go to only one club in Berlin, make it Berghain. But, remember, if you want to get in, dash your hopes of seeming fashionably late and showing up at 3 AM –remember, it’s cold outside and the wait at that time could last for-ev-er.

Berghain has been branching out in the past couple of years, hosting rock concerts, like Animal Collective, modern dance performances as well as music by contemporary (classical) composers. Check out the website for their listings, who knows, maybe you’ll see a string quartet here sometime soon.

Berghain,  Am Wriezener Bahnhof

2. Cookies

The old Cookies is one of the reasons why I moved to Berlin. Seriously. The club had everything: a sense of humor (at the entrance, written on a brick, was scrawled “Students 6 Euro, Everyone else 4″), hip-yet-casual crowd, great beats, beautiful location(s); Cookies had it all. The new Cookies, now with a fixed address, carries on the torch of the old Cookies but with a bit more flair. Check out the website, there’s also a restaurant associated with AMAZING eats.

NB: this club ONLY happens on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Wussy work-a-days need not bother.

Cookies, Friedrichstrasse 158-164 (Mitte)

3. Picknick. Dorontheenstrasse 90 (Mitte)

Picknick is reminiscent of many clubs that came before it (most notably the nearby Rio) only scaled down –in size at least. Picknick embodies what I’ve always loved about Berlin clubs: gritty everything-goes kind of feel, a vaguely industrial locale, and good music. It tends towards Blog-House and House jams but can pick up the pace as well. Their Myspace should give you a good indication as to what you’re in for: http://www.myspace.com/picknickberlin

Picknick. Dorontheenstrasse 90 (Mitte)

4. Watergate

Watergate feels more ‘clubby‘ than the places I tend to visit, but every once and again, this is a good change of pace. Like a scene out of 2001: A Space Odyssey mixed with the soothing feeling of being practically on top of the river Spree, Watergate is fashionable but also charming. But then again, it’d be hard to not to be charming, what with its amazing view of the absolutely beautiful Oberbaumbruecke.

Watergate. Falckensteinstrasse 49 (Kreuzberg)

5. Weekend

Located on the twelfth floor, Weekend offers a real panorama view of the city. Though not my favorite club per se, Weekend is highly recommended for the traveler who would like to see Berlin from above but who would like to shake their tail-feathers while doing it. The music is good, the crowd, passable, but the view, I mean, the view! Staying until the sunrise is then highly recommended and way better than a view atop the TV tower.

Weekend. Alexanderplatz 5 (Mitte)

Most of these clubs are in Mitte but if you feel like venturing off to Berghain or Watergate (or maybe trying some other locations, there are plenty to be found) after hopping around the clubs in Mitte, rest assured that a cab ride won’t run you into the ground (under 20 Euros) and, even better, Berlin’s Transport system, the BVG, runs regularly at all hours on the weekends.

Happy Dancing!

Photo of Berlin night club originally posted by tuppus