I visited this city for the first time acting like a kid in a toy store. Expressing a ‘Wow’ here, a ‘Amazing’ there. My tour guide is a good friend, Tina, who was living in the Umbrian paradise back in 2007. She is detailed when explaining to me all the beauties and wonders of Perugia. We started with some Enoteche (wine bars). Then we moved on to pizzerias’ Umbrian style, and ending with some information on a festival that cannot be missed. Unlike Florence, Perugia brings peace to your soul as you meander through the gently constructed walkways. Tourists are out and about but not as constant and filling as Florence. Walking up then down then up again to the most calming squares I have ever been in.

1. Cinastik Wine Bar

Cinastik, which is located on Via dei Priori 39, is housed in a medieval building with a warm feeling that carries you away. Upstairs is where the Jazz happens. There has been many a famous face that has played their music within these walls, from Ligubue and Beppe Grillo. Well these are famous Italian faces, nonetheless it is a very nice quaint place to enjoy a romantic evening or a night out with a fabulous girlfriend. An enoteca with prestige and that cannot be missed!

2. Frittole Wine Bar

The next Enoteca wine bar we went to was called Frittole found on Via Alessi 30. The evening brought on more wine and more of the beautiful Italian, pardon me, Perugian culture. Frittole is the enlightening part of Perugia. I found myself sipping the most delicious Umbrian wine I could have ever drank. Moreover, the colorful people added to our experience. Owned by a couple from Montepulciano, I felt as if I was a guest in their own home. As I wish I remembered the name my favorite glass of wine I drank, I am only reminded of the feeling I felt sitting enjoying my most favorite glass ever. All it tells me is to visit Perugia again soon.

3. Tutto Testo Restaurant

During the day we enjoyed typical Perugian cuisine, Torta al Testo to be exact. The Umbrian fast food as it is called, is a flat griddle bread that is one of the most popular throughout Umbria. Adding your favorite types of meats, cheeses, and greens and there you have the most filling, most delicious, fast food sandwich you can ask for. Traveling to Tutto Testo is where you can enjoy the authentic Torta al Testo. If this make your mouth water, here is a recipe for you here.

4. Pizzeria Mediterraneo

Mediterraneo located on Piazza Picchino 11, shares my love of pizza. I enjoyed a pizza with mozzarella and prosciutto thus ending the meal with a joint piece of tiramisu. Tina and I shared it to our heart’s desire. This turns into a college pizzeria at night, my suggestion is to stroll here for a nice long lunch.

For the views that take your breath away, walk to the lovely Piazza Italia where the Rocca Paolina sits. The portico’s of the Rocca Paolina sets a perfect photo opportunity for the avid photographers. As well as the viewpoints from the streets surrounding the Rocca Paolina, and yes this what people see everyday when living in Perugia. Can you believe it? Here is one of my views from that point.

5. Chocolate

The last but not least attraction about Perugia is the Eurochocolate Festival. Which is held every October, established back in 1907 by Giovanni Buitoni. The founder of the Perugina chocolate factory, Buitoni, created the world famous Baci chocolate as a reminder of his true love. As Valentine’s Day comes around remember the Baci chocolate and give it to the one you love wholeheartedly.

Photo of pizza by shok

Piazzale Michelangelo

Piazzale Michelangelo has the views of Florence and beyond. All you have to do is turn around once you walk the hike up through San Niccolo, up further as you start to get your camera out to take your first picture of Florence, you must press on to the tippy top. Once there, enjoy the markets, vendors with refreshing beverages and ice cream. Now what you see straight ahead of you is Fiesole up on the hill with the tiny bell tower in the middle. Fiesole is reached by bus number 7 to the end of the line.  To your right from Fiesole you will see below the stadium lights hanging over the Fiorentina soccer field. As you keep turning to your right you will find fields of olive groves and the Arno river heading in the direction of Monte Falterona where the river originates. Turning towards the city center, you will see the gorgeous Florence skyline. Containing the bell tower of Santa Croce, Il Duomo, Il Campinle, Palazzo Vecchio, and last but not least the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). Sunset is a great time to capture the perfect Florence backdrop.

San Miniato

San Miniato al Monte can be reached from Piazzale Michelangelo. Follow the path to the church, where you see all those stairs. The stairs will lead you to a spectacular view of Florence. Sitting higher than Piazzale Michelangelo, you will see much, much more of the city. There is tradition I have, I make a pack dinner and escape the day to watch the sunset. It is breathtaking. If you happen to plan to stay all afternoon, at around 5 pm on certain days, the Monks of San Miniato will chant in the crypt of the church. Very calming and relaxing.

Fiesole

Fiesole has an array of vistas you can walk to easily from where bus 7 drops you in Piazza Mino. As you walk off the bus standing facing the bus, you will see the main Cathedral. Cross the street so you are right next to it. You will see a steep hill on your left. That is your path. Climb up slowly and periodically turning around to get a nice shot of the valleys surrounding Fiesole. Once you reach the top, you will be out of breath and ready to let it sink in. What a gorgeous view! On a clear day, you will have a perfect shot of the center as it stands like a miniature city. If it happens to be a foggy or gloomy day, take the picture anyways. It is a fabulous viewpoint nonetheless. The other picture perfect is on the other side of Piazza Mino. Following Via Giuseppe Verdi up the winding road, where you will see little old Italian men and women carrying heavy groceries up, you will once again know when you are at the view point. There is plenty of residences around that says to you, “I wish I lived right there” pointing at the terrace looking out to Florence. You may keep following the path up and up to an even better view. I could sit up there for hours just taking pictures.

Florence Cathedral

Santa Maria del Fiore (also known as il Duomo) has a nice workout as well as another place to take that one perfect shot. A great opportunity to see this fabulous view is to walk the 463 steps to the tippy top. There is a small fee for this exercise but it is well worth it. You have a 360 degree view of the hills that surround this Renaissance gem! Afterwards you can drag yourself to the nearest pizzeria and have a large Calzone.

Florence Bridges

Any Ponte (Bridge) can give you the shot of your dreams. Either you can face the Ponte Vecchio or spin around to the hills sweeping alongside Florence as if they were waves in an ocean. Nothing beats the capture of you standing on the ancient bridge looking east or west. But always try to enjoy the view of the Ponte Vecchio from wherever you are standing.

Photo of photographer taking pictures of Florence, Tuscany by acidcookie

BM Bookshop

BM Bookshop has been around 1963 although I consider this a new treasure of a bookshop. I recently found it on a quiet street intersecting Piazza Ognissanti where the river Arno seems to jump out at you. The books available to you are like the store, rare. Every time I entered this little hole in the wall, I am the only one perusing the merchandise. The woman that works inside is very friendly and helpful. The difference between the larger bookstores and BM, you are assisted kindly with every title you are looking for. Anything you are in need of, you will be able to find it here. From art history, cooking, architecture, translations from Italian authors. You can find the books that you wouldn’t normally find in the larger stores. There are always sales as well at BM, travel along the river Arno until you see the Westin and the Grand Hotel facing each other in Piazza Ognissanti. Borgo Ognissanti will bring you to the bookshop that is authentic Florence.

BM BOOKSHOP
Borgognissanti, 4/r
50123 Florence, Italy
Tel & fax: +39 055 294575
(Mon-Sat 9.30am 7.30pm)
Info: bmbookshop@dada.it
Web: bmbookshop.com

Paperback Exchange

Paperback Exchange started back 1979 and since been a token bookstore in Florence for students. A small family business that has flourished over the years, brings a friendly feel to the city center. Sitting at the end of Via delle Oche, Paperback Exchange lures the unexpected tourists in by it’s big windows of the latest book releases and most popular art history. Students are assisted by the helpful staff who speak English, if you forget the name of the book you need to purchase there is a list of the schools who use the Paperback Exchange that sell the textbooks to their students. Although they are not divided by professor, just by school name. Just ask a kind assistant.

Paperback Exchange
Via delle Oche, 4Red
50122 Firenze, Italy
Email: papex@papex.it
Phone: +39.055.293460
Fax: +39.055.2658395

Italian bookshops in Florence

The three Italian bookstores listed below have a large section of all books both in Italian and English. They are much bigger than the little shops above and are a bit more crowded. If you know exactly what book you need and where to find it, these are the bookstores to enter. As the assistants here are a bit more busy than the ones at the smaller ones, but it never hurts to ask one of them if you need some guidance. These bookshops are great if you want to not be bothered, to sit and read an excerpt of a book. Couches are spread throughout the store and Edison has a great cafe on the second floor where you can enjoy an espresso or cappuccino with your book. Here are the addresses of each of these larger stores in guiding you to the right book selection for you, either for school or for pleasure.

Mel Bookstore
Via de’ Cerretani, 16r
Phone: +39 055.287339
Fax: +39 055.215195
Info: melfirenze@melbookstore.it

La Feltrinelli International
Via Cavour, 12 – 50129 Florence FI
La Feltrinelli Librerie
Via de’ Cerretani, 30/32r – 50123 Florence FI
web: lafeltrinelli.it

Edison Bookstore
Piazza Repubblica 27/R – 50123 Florence FI
Phone: +39 055-213-110

Photo of book store in Florence, Italy by Rosino

1. Parmigiano

Parmigiano Reggiano is the most famous of the Italian cheeses made from cow’s milk. Parmigiano is the Italian adjective of where it is produced, Parma. The mistake we, Americans, make is referring to the Parmesan produced in the states as the same as the authentic Parmigiano Reggiano. The difference is the original Parmigiano is aged between 12 to 20 months unlike the Parmesan of the states. The name ‘Parmesan’ in the EU, legally refers to the Parmigiano Reggiano DOP which means it was produced in Northern Italy. Outside the EU, Parmesan can be sold under the name but only generically like for example, Kraft’s Parmesan. Another difference is in the weight of the wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano(80 pounds) to the Parmesan wheel(24 pounds). That is probably why you can find the price for an average wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano starting at 490 Euro. Eeek!! It will last you a long time as well as fill your home with the delicious aroma of the authentic cheese. I don’t need to tell you what you cannot put Parmigiano Reggiano on, basically stirred into soup, grated over pasta, also eaten in chunks with balsamic vinegar. Is your mouth-watering? Any of you cooks out there know very well that it is the key ingredient in your homemade Alfredo and Pesto sauce. Ok, now my mouth is watering.

2. Pecorino

Pecorino is made from sheep’s milk and is another hard cheese that is delectable. There are four mature varieties of Pecorino cheese: Pecorino Toscano, Pecorino Romano, Pecorino Sardo, and Pecorino Siciliano. All are aged for different lengths of time that keep them separated from each other. Pecorino is most commonly used on pasta, but can also be fantastic dipped in honey. Do try it with the honey from Montalcino, the one with the granulated crystals. Oh so good! Although distinctively strong, and very salty, Pecorino is very popular in more southern dishes, Roman, Sicilian, with strong flavored sauces.

3. Gorgonzola

Moving on to Gorgonzola, I nicknamed the stinky cheese, which is made from whole cow’s milk. It is referred to as a veined Italian blue cheese because of the greenish blue mold that forms when it is aging. Gorgonzola is typically aged for three to four months. The name of the cheese comes from the town of Gorgonzola, outside of Milan, which is said to be the place it was made for the first time in 879. Although neighboring towns quarrel over if that is a fact. Nowadays, most of the production of Gorgonzola takes place in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions of Italy. For food preparations, Gorgonzola can be used as topping for pizza, melted into risotto or pasta, served with Polenta, and the classic eating it with some fresh bread.

4. Mozzarella

Last but not least, Mozzarella which is produced in the region of Campania. Let me count the types, Mozzarella di Bufala, Mozzarella fior di latte and Scamorza (smoked). Mozzarella di Bufala is made from water buffalo’s milk. It is always an option to add as a topping on a pizza, it is worth the 50 cents to add. Mozzarella fior di latte is derived from fresh pasteurized or unpasteurized cow’s milk. Scamorza comes from the southern Italian dilect “scamozzata” meaning “without a shirt” because these cheeses don’t have a hard surface covering the soft cured cheese. It is made from sheep’s milk originating, unlike the others, in the southern region of Puglia. As you all should know all these types of Mozzarella can be good on your favorite pizza, Mozzarella di Bufala and fior di latte is most commonly used with Caprese salads. All three can be added to your desired pasta dish to give you a surprise of cheesy goodness in your mouth.

No cheese can be without a piece of bread to nibble on before, during, or after your meal. Now I dare you to try each of these cheeses, or if you have, have a reunion of these cheeses at a party, a night in, or a sample at your local deli counter. A deliciously divine cheese can always enhance a party.

Photo of Pamigiano Reggiano originally posted by paPisc

Eurail Passes. Are they a better deal or no?

Depends on how long you are traveling either just in Italy or across the Europe. I believe they are a fantastic deal these days. If your itinerary allows you to travel much easier by train, then it is worth the money. As the dollar keeps falling, in my opinion, the Eurail pass is a great idea.

Should I buy my ticket before I leave home?

I suggest on waiting until you arrive in Italy. Trains don’t usually sell out. The reason why it is smart to buy the tickets when you arrive is because Italy is known for their many strikes. So if you buy the tickets before and find out the day you bought them there is a strike, there is more time you spend exchanging the tickets. The domino effect begins of reorganizing your planned trip to Italy.

Can I make a reservation online for a Eurostar or Intercity train with my Eurail pass?

As far as I know, it isn’t possible to do this online. You must complete this process at the train station with one of the tellers. PS, there is an extra charge for this reservation.

Can I make a reservation from the automatic machines in the station?

Yes you can. You will choose where you want to sit using the touch screen.

How can I make sure our seats are together?

Choosing seats together is difficult to come by on the automatic machines. The way the seats are laid out are a bit different so you can be sure you are sitting together. When you get on the train and you seem to be spread out, see if the other patrons will mind switching so you can sit next to loved ones. If you really want to make sure you are together, go to one of the tellers and double-check.

Where do we look for the seat numbers and carriage numbers?

Carriage numbers are located on the outside of each car, Intercity and Eurostar. For example, it will say Carrozza 12 on the side of the car. On the Eurostar it is usually a digital screen and on the Intercity it is written on the side.

What is the difference between first class and second class in all trains?

On the Eurostar, the seats are a bit nicer but I believe that is all. For all other trains, there is really no difference. Spending the extra 10 or 15 euro to be in first class, is really not worth your money. There is no special service you are missing out on. Stick with the second class people.

Are buses more reasonable than trains when traveling cross-country?

Honestly I have never heard of anyone taking a bus from Milan to Florence, for example. I am sure their are buses but they seem to take a lot longer. I took one from Florence to Forte dei Marmi, the bus indeed, took longer than the train would’ve. The bus option is open for all that want to take it but I prefer the trains.

Is traveling during the summer months difficult for tourists?

The summer months (June, July, and August) are in fact the most crowded throughout Italy. The trains will probably be really crowded because everyone is trying to get to some place cool. I have never had a problem getting a ticket in the summer. Although I might have had to take a later train or a train the next day but I was never stranded.

Overnight trains. How do they work?

Overnight trains are fabulous if you want to go from Milan to Sicily or better yet Rome to Salzburg. Where ever you want to travel to, it is possible with the overnight trains. Keep in mind these trains aren’t cheap. Depending on where you are heading be prepared to spend about 100 Euro or more a person. Using the Eurail Pass, you will pay significantly less.

If you have any more questions that I didn’t address here please comment below.

Happy Travels!

Picture of Eurostar train originally posted by Mtl Shag

Panzanella born on the fields of Tuscany grown with passion. Living a hard life, the farmers produced this amazing and fresh salad from the ground. When they were working during the summer, they would arise from sleep at around 3 am and then by 4 am be out in the fields harvesting the crops. As 8 am came around, the sun starting to warm the earth, they came in for breakfast. Bringing the necessary ingredients from the garden:

basil leaves
cucumbers
tomatoes
red onions

Soaking the day old bread in water so it is easy to break apart. Then mixing all the ingredients together, tossing with olive oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. How easy is that? By the time 11am struck, the farmers were back home having seconds of the Panzanella from the morning break.

Panzanella recipe:

Day old Tuscan bread
2 Tomatoes
1 Cucumber
1 Red Onion
15 leaves of Basil
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Red Wine Vinegar
Ground Pepper
Salt

First you soak the bread in a bowl of cold water until the bread has absorbed the water. Then chop the tomatoes, red onions, and place in a bowl. Peal the cucumber and chop. Add to bowl with tomatoes and red onions. When the bread has soaked up the water, remove from bread and squeeze out the water into the sink and crumble into pieces and place in a new bowl. Then add the bread to the tomatoes, red onions, and cucumber. Season with salt and pepper, olive oil and vinegar. Add more olive oil to make the bread more manageable to toss until completely mixed.

Photo of homemade panzanella originally posted by fugzu

• Be assertive

When you get onto the bike know the direction you need to go. Of course look both ways or one way (if it is a one way street), there could be a scooter coming out from your blind spot. Following the direction of traffic is a must. Note: if you are riding against traffic be extra careful where you ride. Slow down if you know the car will not make it around you. While riding look behind you twice before crossing the street to the other side. Drivers do not handle slowing down on small narrow streets lightly. Keep pedaling once you have chosen the direction you want to go in a busy piazza. Always keep your eyes forward on your target direction if you glance at the bus coming at you, that could be trouble.

• Riding on the sidewalk or the street?

You are able to ride on the sidewalk as much as you want but if you know Florence, there aren’t the biggest sidewalks in the world. In the center there is, but have you forgotten the crowds of tourists that will be marching down them?

The street is the better choice to get where you want to go fast. Riding with the flow of traffic can be an advantage because on some point will you going just as fast as a Smart car. On the sidewalk you have the potential of running down innocent people and well, getting yourself hurt along the way. Now the most horrifying thing is that you will be riding your bike alongside scooters, cars, and yes, LARGE buses. You must stay calm and be alert.

• Riding next to traffic

Calm and alert. The scariest part for me when I started riding alongside traffic that you could actually reach out, and touch the car next to you. Also the traffic speeds by you like you are invisible. It is not like in the States where the cars make a semi-circle around you. In Italy, you are literally part of traffic, not a Sunday afternoon rider in the park.

Once I caught myself behind a city bus on a street which he could not pass. I pedaled my heart out however still being honked at. This is normal, bus drivers seem to have a dislike for bicyclists, every time one is going a bit slow in front of a non-passable bus, they must honk to make themselves known. My advice is to keep moving, the bus will be stopping soon and then treat yourself to gelato for cheating death.

• Small narrow streets

Usually there aren’t many cars on such streets but if you are riding down Via Cavour or other streets leading into, for example, Piazza Liberta, Piazzale Donetello, or Piazza Beccaria, these are where the lines of traffic come into play. If you find yourself going down a one way street against traffic be aware that on one or both sides will have parking. There is no way this car or truck will be able to swerve around you. Stop your bike behind a car or come close to the sidewalk and smile. Be courteous, they are bigger than you. Now this isn’t Naples or Rome where drivers are said to be more aggressive than here, in Florence they won’t try to run you over.

• Once you get to the center…

Meeting a friend for a coffee, going to class or going to work, park your bike once you arrive in the center and walk to your destination. There is no need to ride through the chaos of picture takers, pointers at high towers, or large packs of fanny pack wearers. I usually find parking either in Piazza San Marco, Piazza Della Signoria or Piazza del Duomo. Most piazza’s or main streets like Via Cavour have bike parking along it. It saves you the struggle of parking outside the place you need to be where there is no parking.

Be aware, be assertive, and be aggressive when riding on Florentine streets. The first few times will be scary, so be patient with yourself. Then all of the sudden you will be a calm bike rider, where bike riding gets you to your destination faster and cheaper.

Good Luck!

Picture of old bike by Katie Greenaway

‘This hill takes a lot out of you.’ I thought walking briskly up the steep, main drag of Fiesole, Via Antonio Gramsci. This town is taken for granted sitting high above the valley that is Florence, Tuscany. You can see the grand bell tower from many different views throughout the city, although no one seems to know about it. Unless you take the sightseeing double decker bus, no one will venture to the tippy top of this grand and noble dwelling. Instead of the boring tour bus, hop on the #7 city bus and stride through the town of San Domenico, and up the winding strada (street),Via Angelico. Just as the street describes leading up to it, it is an Angel sitting amongst the stars. The #7 will drop you right in front of a newsstand and an Irish pub, J.J. Hill. As an ancient, mystical town welcomes you.

There are many trinkets to enjoy in this city above the valley. A neighborhood bakery sells freshly baked cookies, pastries, and pizzas everyday. A fruit stand has an array of delicious fresh from the garden fruits and vegetables. Many little shops selling baby clothes, swimsuits, and designer sunglasses along Via Antonio Gramsci have very friendly staff. Fiesole can be a great stroll for an afternoon of window shopping as well as a great workout.

If you arrive early enough in the day, I suggest a walk through the hills behind the main square. To travel to this secluded place, walk to the right of Piazza Mino that veers right even more when you pass the piazza. The street is called Via Guiseppe Verdi. Along this street you will have gorgeous views of Florence, as if you were a bird flying high. Follow this road, having views of Florence on your right and elegant houses lining your left, until you see an elementary school on your left with houses aligning the street heading down, then up into the hills. You are there when this tabernacle of the Virgin Mary appears at the entrance. It looks like this: Walk a bit through the forest up and up through carefully marked path, enjoy the solitude and beautiful sights of Tuscany at it’s finest.

After the brisk walk through the ancient Etruscan hills, come back the way you came and have a delicious lunch of pizza and pasta at Pizzeria Etrusca. Located closest to the Cathedral on the corner of Piazza Mino. There is a great outdoor café during the summer months and if it is a bit chilly the upstairs eatery is very cozy.

After a full lunch, why not venture to the Roman Forum and Theater right behind the pizzeria, enjoy the enchanting views of the neighboring villages from ancient ruins. From there I suggest making another trek up the hill of Via San Francesco for a great afternoon gaze of Florence. Up further, there is a quaint church called San Francesco with a monastery. Another jewel of this fantastic town. In the evening in Fiesole, there is a place you can’t miss. The cemetery of Fiesole is a spectacle in itself. The artificial lights on each grave lights up, more reason to go and sit in the silence of the flickering lights. It is located on Via del Cimiterio, right behind the Cathedral.

Fiesole is much cooler, quieter, and all around calmer than the busy city center of Florence. If this sounds like the perfect place for you I recommend the Hotel Villa Bonelli. I studied, lived there and have been staying with this staff for over 6 years now. I hope I have convinced you to partake in a ride on the #7 bus to a hidden secret.

Picture of Fiesole, Florence, courtesy of Hotel Villa Bonelli

I have attended a couple of Italian language schools in Florence in my attempt to drink in this language. I have researched the other schools very thoroughly so to give you a basic view of each one. I am looking for schools with a 2-hour class daily for a month. I think it is more useful and less overwhelming. I took a 4-hour class at CLIDA for a month and I feel it was an overload of Italian. I felt bombarded. Tiny baby steps, I felt that it was better for me. Accommodations can be included in the price of each course with each of these schools. You have the option of living with a family or renting an apartment in Florence with fellow students. I hope this helps my fellow Italophiles in finding a great Italian language school in Florence.

1. Centro Internationale Studenti Giorgio La Pira

Via de’ Pescioni 3 – Florence Palazzo Strozzi

I wanted to start out with the best language school I have ever attended. This was my school for 6 months this past year while I was an au pair. I felt I learned more grammar and vocabulary from my teachers. The teachers are very nice and helpful. You will feel comfortable and challenged everyday.

The great thing about this school is that the price is so worth it. For 2-hours a day, Monday to Thursday for a month is only 130 Euro. You will not find a cheaper month long class in Florence. These are educated teachers who care about helping you learn and want you to speak, to make mistakes. The classes are small and very diverse. It was great because I was able to meet people from all over the world as well.

2. Lorenzo de’ Medici

Via Faenza, 43 – Florence San Lorenzo

This school has campuses in Florence, Rome and Tuscania. It has many courses other than just language. The school caters to US universities giving college credit. I had a friend, Joan, who attended a month long course on art and said, “The school was great.”

I once visited the school with her and thought the school was very organized and full of energy. If you want a great experience in one of the many authentic, historical buildings then attend this prominent school.

As my theme previously stated, I am pushing the 2-hour a day class session instead of the 4-hour, however this school only has that option in the summers. For a month of 2-hour a day course in the summer is 300 Euro. During the normal school year, they have only 4-hour class session per month which is 580 Euro. Yes, the prices are quite expensive, but this is one the most famous schools in Florence. If you want the best, you must pay the price.

3. Scuola Leonardo da Vinci

Via Bufalini, 3 – Florence Santissima Annunziata

Everyday so far we come home saying how much we love our school, the staff, teachers, and the people we’re meeting there. We’re really having a wonderful and productive time. There are 2 main classes we attend each morning – grammar and conversation. Each instructor is so animated and patient so even while they’re teaching Italian in Italian, it works.

This is a quote from my friend Erin, who is currently attending this school with her husband.

This school has campuses in Milan, Rome, and Siena as well as Florence. The standard course is again, 4-hours a day and for a month it costs 300 Euro. This school also gives college credit a chosen few of US universities. Class size is minimum of 12 students of all different nationalities. Which is plus so you are not forced to digress and use your native tongue. The levels of each course are as follows; Beginner, Elementary, Intermediate, Advanced, Proficient, and Diploma. I feel this is a school for students who put their heart and soul into learning this beautiful language.

4. ABC Centro Di Lingua & Cultura Italiana

Via de’ Rustici, 7 – Florence Uffizi

I looked into attending this school and really liked it. The classes consist of just 7 to 10 students, unlike the other schools. The courses are divided into six levels and two programs: Formation Program and Specialization Program. The Formation program is divided into three levels elementary, middle, and superior. At the conclusion of the program students are able to express themselves correctly in Italian, written and spoken forms. The Specialization Programs is also divided into three levels, Advanced 1, Advanced 2, and Advanced 3. The students at the end of this process will have a confident feel of the language to express themselves both in written and spoken forms. The cost of this language experience for 4-hours a day per month would be 600 Euro.

5. Centro Linguistico Italian Dante Alighieri

Piazza della Repubblica, 5 – Florence Duomo

I went to this school for a month in 2005. It was my first encounter with the Italian language schools and how they work. I took the 4-hour class for a month. It was the basic learning style, grammar for 2-hours in the morning and conversation and vocabulary the last 2-hours. The teacher I had was very sweet but I felt I lacked a bit in confidence in speaking her class. My fellow students begged to differ. But overall I enjoyed the people, the structure, and the school. I knew if I were to attend another school, it couldn’t be a pressing 4-hour a day class.

The standard group course per month for 4-hours a day is 400 Euro. You have the option of attending for just two weeks instead of the whole 4 weeks. This school is located right in the center of Florence, in Piazza della Repubblica, and housed in a 19th-century building facing the famous piazza.

I have not kept to my idea of recommending 2-hour a day classes, but all these schools have exceptional programs by their own standards that can benefit all different learning curves.

Photo of library in Florence originally posted by limbte

1. How to buy a bus ticket

In Florence you can buy tickets at newspaper stands and most tabacchi (tobacco shops) and cafes where there is ATAF sign. There are many different types of tickets you can buy, 1 ride good for 70 minutes (un biglietto), 4 ride good for 4 rides for 70 minutes (un multi-plu), 10, 60 minute rides (Carta Agile, Dieci Euro), 20, 60 minute rides (Carta Agile, Venti Euro). You can venture on and off any bus in the city in the alloted 60 or 70 minutes without stamping another. When you validate the ticket upon entering the bus, it will print the day and time on the ticket.

2. How to validate your bus ticket

Once you step onto the bus, you must validate your ticket. You will find an orange box in the front and back of the bus. If you purchased the Carta Agile you don’t need to stamp this particular card. Right above where you validate the normal tickets, it says Agile, and all you do it wave the card in front of that. It will beep, and then show you how many rides you have left. Cool huh? If you are traveling with a large family or a group of friends I suggest investing in the Carta Agile.

Note: Sometimes the Agile part won’t beep. If the Bus police board your bus at that time, explain to them, you tried but it didn’t work. I have seen this happen, they know that the system sometimes isn’t up to par.

3. When the bus is crowded

If you are sitting when the bus is crowded and you notice an elderly person, a woman with child or children, or a disabled person, it is customary to give them your seat if they chose to take it. Some people don’t but I always try to be courteous to these people. You are a guest in their country.

When the bus is extra, extra crowded, think if you really need to take the bus. Look at your map and see how to get to your destination in a scenic fashion. Personally, I would rather walk than get on a crowded bus. This is a smorgasbord for pickpockets who meander on these crowded buses. When you are pinned in a position that you can’t reach your purse or wallet, stay alert. Also you can risk getting injured also when pinned or stuck in a corner. People really can’t move in these situations or won’t for that matter. You must push through in order to get off these buses, be aggressive and courteous, saying ‘Scusi‘ or ‘Mi Scusi, Io scendo‘(Excuse me, I am getting off) as you get closer to the uscita (exit). Keep in mind the entrata (entrances) on the bus is the front and back door. The middle door is the uscita (exit) and where you disembark the bus. Make sure you stand (or make you way) by the exit in order to arrive at your stop.

4. Florence bus police

Let me inform you of the bus police of Florence. Usually they come onto a bus in twos, dressed in street clothes. You can point them out when they look among the crowd of people suspiciously. Then all of a sudden they pull out their badge and exclaim “Biglietti!” You must present your ticket to them at this time. If you never stamped it or don’t have a ticket they will issue you a fine and ticket for not having a ticket. When I was caught I had to give them my passport to record my name and I had to then go down to the Bus Depot and pay the 50 Euro ticket. UGH! These men can be nice or they can be difficult, be cooperative and take your fine without complaining. I suggest always stamping your ticket when you get on a bus in Florence. Travel safe!

If you’ve already booked your flight and your hotel, and just can’t wait to explore the country and soak up the Italian culture, check out this short list of things not to forget when on holiday in Rome, Venice, Tuscany or Sicily.

• Shops close at 1 and don’t open until 3 or 4pm.

• Buses can randomly show up two at a time or not at all.

• Italian trains can stop in the middle of nowhere amongst a landscape that is breathtaking.

• Being told “Ciao Bella” more than 10 times a day is slow day.

• Smoking is pastime of most but not all Italians.

• Dogs are welcome in any public place.

• Riding a bicycle is better than walking, well once you get the hang of it.

• An espresso in the afternoon is a great pick-me-up.

• Trying to speak Italian to an Italian is taken as a compliment.

• If you meet a friend on the street on your way to the market, you might end up hanging out with that person for the rest of the day.

• Always when invited to a party bring a bottle of wine as a sign of thanks.

• Always offer up your seat on the bus if someone else really needs it.

• And most of all never rush through a meal. Savor each bite and sip your wine with a smile.

Picture of three-colored wall in Milan, Italy originally posted by *Berto

1. Bobolino Garden

Bobolino is located just past Porta Romana, way up the wide avenue Viale Niccolo’ Machiavelli. As historical as his stories were, so is this fantastic road leading you to a setting where it is serene. There are little parks with peaceful benches and fountains along the way to the top of the hill.

From Bobolino there is curvy path that takes you through Piazzale Galileo and onwards toward the famous Basilica San Miniato al Monte and Piazzale Michelangelo, which besides having gorgeous views, many buses congregate at this point.

Nearest accommodation to Boboli Garden, Florence : Hotel Villa Carlotta

2. Porta Romana

This is an area that encompasses the traditional Tuscan lifestyle. In this square there is a pharmacy, ice cream shops, Il forno (bakery), and a man who sells flowers right out of his truck. It is a grand place to see one of the entrances of Florence. This gate to the town is part of the original walled in city, dating back to the 14th Century. Porta Romana is the largest and best-kept gate of the city. It has maintained the original iron doors and the Medici Family coat of arms on a marble plaque. It is located at the end of Viale del Poggio Imperiale and Viale Galilei and introduces you to Via Romana that takes you towards the historical center.

In the center of the roundabout, stands a statue created by an contemporary artist, Michelangelo Pistoletto. It is cast in marble and entitled “Dietrofronte” which literally means, Back Front. The statue represents a woman whose imaginary movement southwards to leave the city is hindered by a heavy bundle on her head which points in the opposite direction towards Florence’s city center. So I guess it means that even if you try to escape you can’t possibly leave this city full of wonderment and renaissance beauty.

Nearest accommodation to Porta Romana, Florence : Bed & Breakfast Residenza Cantagalli

3. Borgo San Frediano

San Frediano is known as the most popular part of ‘Old Florence’. There are many old style shops such as woodworking, artisans, which are still in their original structure and character. For example, the butcher shops have marble covered walls and brass accessories that were typical Florentine decoration in the Middle Ages.

If you pass the famous Piazza del Carmine, which contains Florentine jewels such as the Brancacci Chapel, you will end up in a piazza where calcio (soccer) is regularly played. Piazza Tasso, in the past five years, has turned its concrete soccer field into a turf field but a bit harder. The piazza is very quiet and quaint.

If you follow the ancient walls all the way around you can end up at another gate of the city, Porta San Frediano. It is another historical part of Florence that most people don’t see. This area is so peaceful and true Florentine. There are many fabulous restaurants in this area that are still untapped. Venture to this area when you want to experience authentic Italian cuisine.

Accommodation in Borgo San Frediano, Florence: Bead & Breakfast San Frediano Mansion

4. San Niccolo’

San Niccolo’ has many facets that not many people know about. There are unknown restaurants that are very rarely mentioned in such guidebooks, such as Osteria San Niccolo’. It is a small locale, and worth a stop for a lunch or dinner. I really like this restaurant because it has a small menu with selections of the season. This is another jewel of the Oltrarno that is hidden amongst the Florentines.

There is also the Church of San Niccolo’, one of oldest churches in Florence. Being close to the Arno, it has gone through two devastating floods, one in 1557, and the infamous 1966 flood. It was severely damaged in both but is still standing.

A nice walk that I once traveled, one lazy early evening as the sun started to set, began in Piazza de’ Mozzi and I took a right onto Via de’ Bardi. You will then meet a fork in the road heading up two different hills. Take the immediate left on Costa Scarpuccia, follow this around and you will run into a Church, with a simple looking facade. Then take a left past the church and head up on Costa di San Giorgio. To your right as you reach Porta San Giorgio, will be the entrance to Forte Belvedere. If you walk through Porta San Giorgio, take the long road called Via di Belvedere you will capture gorgeous views of the other side of Florence. I suggest going at sunset. The reflections of light on the buildings are spectacular.

Accommodation in San Niccolo’, Florence : Hotel Silla

5. Le Cascine Park

Le Cascine Park became part of the Medici family in the 16th century. It was purchased by Alessandro de’ Medici, first Duke of Florence. After Alessandro died in 1537, Cosimo I de’ Medici, expanded the area. He changed the estates into a beautiful park. There were other boulevards constructed with flowing flowerbeds as well as a forest of different types of trees. When the last descendant of the Medici line passed away, the park was passed to the new Grand Dukes of Tuscany who granted it to the city for the enjoyment of it’s citizens.

Today, there is a great Market every Tuesday from 8 am to 2 pm. It is the largest open market in Florence. The market provides everything imaginable from flowers, fruits, and vegetables to general groceries like housewares, clothing, accessories, shoes, and antiquities. There are also discos/clubs that are based in and around this park. Stay away from this park at night; it is known for illegal prostitution.

From the center you can take the #17C bus to the end of the line. The main entrance of the park begins in Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This is the biggest park in Florence along the Arno River.

Nearest hotel to Le Cascine Park, Florence : Starhotels Michelangelo

1. Le Volpi E L’Uva (Piazza dei Rossi 1)

This little wine bar off the beaten path is just the place for people looking to get away from those crowded squares. It is located in a tiny square called Piazza dei Rossi. It has a homey feeling and welcoming atmosphere. The staff is very helpful and kind. If you don’t know what you type of wine to try, they will suggest something perfect for you. And to munch on from a long morning of walking, there is an array of cheese plates, salumi, and caprese. In addition, there are typical panini and schiacciatine made with fresh ingredients with superb flavor to add to the experience.

They provide a hearty list of Italian wines from small producers throughout the country. You will find wines in this shop that you won’t find anywhere else in Florence. I suggest taking advantage of this opportunity to browse the wide range of delectable collection of wines such as a classic Chianti or a stunning Brunello, not to forget, Prosecco, which is Italian champagne, and the famous Vin Santo, which is a sweet desert wine.

Even though there are wine bars galore, this one is exceptional with very reasonable prices. You will be served with the smile, left alone to enjoy the afternoon sounds or evening chatter.

The hours of this lovely little wine adventure is Monday through Saturday 11-9pm, Sunday it is closed.

2. Coquinarius (Via delle Oche 15r)

I remember frequently setting up camp at this fabulous wine bar. It is a room full of warmth and the scents of a seasonal menu. Coquinarius has a small menu of different types of bruschette for antipasti, tasty meats and fish. Salads are a forte here; creative choices include toppings such as sun-dried tomatoes, eggplants, sunflower seeds, zucchini flowers or pear. This elegant and striking enoteca has a wide range of wines from Italy, California, Argentina, Austria and Chile.

The wait staff are very kind and full of life. It is a great place to sit for the afternoon, bring a book, enjoy the chatter of the other patrons, or get lost in the glass of wine. Wines are served by the glass or bottle in this relaxed, inexpensive experience of true Italian style.

Even though it is located right smack dab in the city center where there are tons of tourist traffic, however you will find the place filled with Florentines enjoying an afternoon bite at this venue. I suggest stopping in for a nice early morning snack at around 11.30 am or waiting until the lunch crowd has left and arrive around 3 pm and enjoy the solitude with your cheeses and crostini.

The hours to this quaint place is 9 pm to late evening. Closed on Sunday.

3. Sei Divino (Via Borgo Ognissanti 42r)

Simply meaning, “You are divine” in Italian. You will feel divine once you arrive at this venue. It is a great place to meet for an aperitif, which is a little buffet of great, fresh food, or an early afternoon lunch.

This fabulous wine bar is located just 2 minutes past the bridge Ponte all Carrata on Via Borgo Ognissanti 42r. It has a great outdoor café and a lounge in the back, great for parties or a secluded evening. The walls are lined with bottles of wine and cozy seating.

Everyday this trendy bar is open and every night there is a themed aperitif:
Monday: Mexican
Tuesday: Sushi
Wednesday: Vegetarian
Thursday: Mediterranean
Friday/Saturday/Sunday: Tuscan

7 Euro buys you a glass of wine and all you eat buffet from 7-10 pm. It is worth the walk to have a great evening of friends, drink, and food.

4. Zoe (Via dei Renai 13r)

Zoe is a venue that always existed yet I never knew about it. It is located close to another popular bar called Negroni. I was used to hanging out at Negroni so I ventured over to Zoe one early evening with some friends. I enjoyed myself immensely, simply because of the food selection served at the aperitif.

They have a plethora of drinks, cocktails, and wine. There aperitif spread is full of crostini, pasta dishes of all kinds and little snacks, like chips. It is a wide-open bar with high ceilings and plenty of cozy seating throughout. The bar also hosts upcoming artists and flatter the place with their artwork. There is an outside seating area that is full of people during the peak gathering hours. The aperitif starts at 7 pm to 10 pm.

In the summer months, on Wednesday evenings, it is referred to as “Frozen Night” featuring all the frozen drinks you adore. It is definitely worth the short walk from the center to this gorgeous, secluded area of San Niccolo’ also known as the Oltrarno.

I hope you make a stop at this very classy, sophisticated wine bar.

5. Beccofino (Piazza degli Scarlatti 1R)

Beccofino is a very elegant wine bar set right on the Arno River. It has a very modern take on the token Florentine restaurant. There is a very exquisite menu of Tuscan favorites. Sticking to the wine theme here, I have only been there for a nice glass of wine. Beccofino is a great place to stop before dinner with a friend or a late evening nightcap. If you want to try the food, which I have heard fabulous things about it. You must make a reservation for this extraordinary dining.

During the summertime, I suggest going there for an afternoon sit, in the nice café area and watch the Arno flow by.

To experience the true Italian way of life in Tuscany, check out our large selection of hotel accommodation in Florence on venere.com.

Photo originally posted by Ami Shah

Once we took the train on our own, it was a whole different story. We would wait in the long, long lines in Florence SMN train station, and once we got to the front of the line we would always have the one attendant that was mean or didn’t speak enough English.

How to buy a train ticket

The good thing about buying tickets (now that I know) is using the automatic machines. They are usually the ones that have people lined up behind them, but you don’t have to speak to anyone. Very easy.

Don’t use the Regional machines though. They are for the slow trains that stop in ever little town. One thing I learned the hard way is when I was running late for a 10:30 am train from Rome to Florence. I rushed and ran to the nearest automatic machine got my ticket for the 10:30 train and as I was running to the track it was on, it was pulling away! I was furious. I didn’t look at the time before I purchased the ticket. I am stupid!

Always look at the time before purchasing a ticket that is for train on its way out of the station. Another thing I learned from this horrible experience is that you can just exchange your ticket on the same machine by punching in the number on your ticket. I mistakenly ripped mine up in the feat of anger. Blast!

Tourists’ misconceptions of the train schedule in Italy amazes me. All the months I lived in Florence, there are only a few times I was stuck on the train or waiting for a train on the platform. Most of the time, I have experienced efficiency of the train system in Italy. Oh the one thing that is bad about train schedules is when they are canceled. Sciopero means strike in Italian, if you ever see signs like this hanging in any station in Italy, find someone who can translate it for you. It is not fun waiting for a train that will never show.

Things to remember when riding on a Trenitalia train

Always remember to validate your ticket in the yellow boxes located in the station or on the platform. You will get fined big if you don’t validate your ticket. Also make sure you have the right type of ticket for the type of train you are riding. I once bought a Regionale ticket instead of an Intercity one. The difference you ask, Regionale doesn’t require a seat reservation, and Intercity does. Thankfully, I had enough cash on me to pay the conductor.

When riding on the fastest train, Eurostar, be aware some people try to ride this train without a seat reservation. If this happens point it out to them and they should promptly move out of your seat. Also some people switch seats to be close to loved ones; if you don’t mind switching from a window to an aisle, then go ahead. Usually people are really kind on switching seats. If not just talk really loud until they let you sit with your friend across the aisle. Kidding!

Above all, enjoy the views out of your window. You are in Italy, how lucky are you? While training around Italy, find places to stay at Venere.com.

Photos originally posted by pizzodisevo, zimpenfish, bluviolin, Ashley Pollak