Venere Travel Blog - It's our business where you sleep!

A few weeks ago, another au pair and I traveled to Florence for a weekend getaway from Turin, with limited time and money to spend on sightseeing. With no touristic itinerary whatseoever, we decided to base all of our decisions – where to eat, what to do, where to go – on the pursuit of Atmosphere: a vague, mystical concept that had something to do with good music, intriguing smells, and fascinating locals. As our combined powers of intuition led us to some sweet places in less frequented corners of the city, I decided to try it here in Turin. Going solely on ambiance, here are my top recommendations for those seeking a high concentration of Atmosphere:

An atmospheric morning stroll in Turin

For an atmospheric morning stroll, visit the Gran Balon, Turin’s historic flea market. This numinous market is listed in some guidebooks as happening every first and third Sunday; in others, every second; and still others, only in spring. The best way to find it is to head to Piazza della Repubblica’s regular open market (within walking distance of the Duomo Cathedral) on any Sunday, and ask about the antiques. From there, someone will point the way. You can find handmade jewelry and street artists peddling their wares alongside unsorted piles of dated videocassettes, vintage leather boots, and antique furniture. Loads of scruffy twenty- and thirty-somethings mill about with lit cigarettes and worn sneakers, shaking hands with Rastafarians while Bill Marley blasts from an unseen boombox.

An atmospheric afternoon tea in Turin

For an atmospheric afternoon tea, stop into Café Lumière, an enchanting teahouse and torteria (specializing also in cakes). A Xerox’ed sign taped to the wall near the bathroom informs customers,“Dal martedì al sabato per cena il Café Lumière si trasforma in risotteria. In the evenings from Tuesday to Saturday, Café Lumière transforms into a risotteria.” (Risotto is a hearty and delicious Italian rice-based dish.) Charm abounds in this softly lit café, where tea is served in delicate French presses and the thick hot chocolate must be stirred every few seconds to avoid hardening. Arched doorways, gilt-framed mirrors and old poster prints recall a hidden corner of Paris. Pull a burgundy armchair up to one of the marble tabletops to read the newspaper or sigh over lost loves, and soak in the charisma the long shelves of loose leaf tea in glass jars line the bar.

An atmospheric post-dinner drink in Turin

For an atmospheric post-dinner beverage, head to BibeRON, a bright, saucy rum bar on Via Silvio Pellico where hipsters of all ages can relax, sip amber drinks from heavy tumblers at a leisurely pace, and swap life stories in normal tones as the exotic world music playing over the crowd never gets too loud—not counting Live Music Mondays, that is, featuring an ever-changing lineup of jazzy groups. Being attractive seems to be a requirement for the bartenders, save for one extremely intriguing silver-haired lady in spectacles who dances behind the cash register. Two rooms are separated by a perforated wall, both sporting hardwood floors and mismatched tables. Wall décor includes artsy photographs blown up into posters, live plants, and a humongous painting of a dancing woman. The merry crowd often spills out onto the sidewalk for fresh air, luring passersby with the sound of clinking glasses and laughter.